FALLING FROM THE TOP OF EVERY PROBLEM I DON'T FLASH

i'm getting more accustomed to hueco it seems. up until this week i've been pretty sore after a climbing day, but today i feel pretty good (coming off of my first 3 day climbing stint; which went pretty well). not to mention last nite was the pimp's & ho's ball. (i'll let you know where there are pictures when they get put up).

as it goes you either dress up as a pimp or as a ho. i went with the former. there was much drinking and much dancing. after 4 glasses of sangria, shots and beer i ended the dizzying nite in a restful stupor. to my suprise i woke up feeling good, but going for a rest day seeing as how we have a big day tomorrow on north mountain with some friends from the red...

fast forward into the future... now is the day after i climbed which is the day after my rest day...

went out with ray and michelle and helped show them around the east mountain with steph. it was a fun day. flashed a long 5 called dragonfly: a 4 out of 4 star gem.












but as the story goes fell off the very top, yet again, of another semi-hard/semi-highball problem; this time it was dry dock (7), a slightly overhung big-moved power/compression somewhat blunt arete. [that's me sticking the first huge move; the left hand is on the starting hold] my 3rd go i fell trying to go out left at the top (which is for the shorter statured). 4th go i fell off the top trying to go out right (which is the way i'll do it when i get back). i did get two moves on full service, a reachy, powerful, good-slopey holded monster to the right of dry dock. full throttle is a sharma problem that links the two.


here's another pic of dry dock. it's not a very good one, but it shows you a little bit of the climb. the lowest hold on the right is your starting heel, and the lowest part of the huge chalked area is your starting right hand slopey pinch.



that makes three 7s and a 10 (which is easier for taller people) that i've failed to do in less than an hour or two, after having pulled through each respective crux. it's only my second week, so i'll be changing that mode of operation tomorrow when i go out with mike & steph and ray & michelle. i'm planning on cleaning up dean's journey and guns of navarone, while hopefully working out loaded with power, a knee-bar/somewhat beta-intensive problem of high-profile half-way up the mountain.

wish me luck!