[song: black wings by tom waits]
it seems practically every other climber i know is injured this season. is it more so than normal, or just more so as i'm affected too? all i know is i figured out what ails me... (thanks to wiki for my self-educating prognosis)
TENOSYNOVITIS is the inflammation of the fluid-filled sheath (called synovium) that surrounds a tendon. symptoms of this include pain, swelling, and difficulty moving the particular joint where the inflammation occurs. when the condition causes the finger to "stick" in a flexed position, this is commonly called "trigger finger," or when a nodule forms on the tendon. affected digits may become painful to straighten once bent and may make a soft cracking sound when moved. the term "trigger finger" itself is used b/c when the finger unlocks it pops back sometimes suddenly, as if releasing the trigger of a gun.
causes are unknown, and the condition is generally seen more often in males.
possible treatments include cortisone injections (followed by varying degrees of painkillers) and an outpatient surgery to enlarge the synovium, where the hand is splinted for a week or so afterwords. fairly less symptomatic cases appear to be treated with NSAIDs and anti-imflammatory drugs.
thankfully i haven't fully developed "trigger finger." i feel like i might as well have seeing as how i can't climb anyway, and it would seem cooler to use it as a party trick or something tonite at the Rock Rodeo. i do have the nice, soft crackling sound when i try to open or close my finger though: definitely not as fun as it sounds.
i've been dosing on sodium naproxen for a few days now and will see how that works after i've reached 7 days of said treatment. if things don't seem to be any better i'm going to look into a cortisone shot, which seems a little less expensive than surgery (especially considering i don't have any health insurance now).
at any rate, i have 9 good fingers... and i may just have to give it the ol' tommy caldwell if it can't pull its own weight (literally, its own weight!).
dealing with the downtime,
ak
Saturday, February 28, 2009
Thursday, February 26, 2009
SUN'S OUT, GUNS OUT!
[song: change is hard by she & him]
i'll have to say that hueco has been a complete success for me. new grades (i'm psyched to have done a few soft 10s (you gotta break into the grade somehow, right -if not just bulking up on 9s), new climbs (super-new, hidden away gems -i may have even done an FA, at hueco!), and new friends (people who know people who i know, and now i know people who know people, you know? i know!). good times... good times. .
as my time here comes to a close though, 2 major things come to the forefront which necessitate (hopefully only) a week of rest: 80 degree weather and a knuckle the size of a quarter.
the weather is telling enough. the latter is some sort of joint inflammation due to overuse/overwork/stress; the big knuckle of my left ring finger is experiencing some increased, acute pain. the sheath that surrounds the tendon that encompasses the joint, i believe (based on multiple conversations with people who've experienced similar pain, and who have previously spoken with some sort of finger specialist), is worn down and not getting enough lubrication. if that is in fact correct, i can tape the finger, even buddy tape, and continue climbing, with no ill effects. to be sure, i'm taking time off to help speed the recovery process and to try and ensure no further damage. and of course, i'll have to limit the load i put on it.
i've been nursing the knuckle for most of my trip here, not thinking much more than it just being the usual stiffness. warming it up slow, loosening/stretching it before climbing, taking anti-imflammatories; whatever precautions i can think of -aside from, of course, complete rest. it seemed to have worked, up until the last few days; the joint pain has come to a head though and now i can't even bend it completely. so i am forced to rest (which is no problem because of this coming heat and volunteer responsibilities with the upcoming Rock Rodeo). especially if i plan to continue climbing for the remaining months leading up to this summer: hopefully heading for bishop, ca and cooler temps next monday or tuesday; and on to joe's valley in utah when it seems to hot there.
so raise a glass with me: to personal progression/victories, to friends & climbing partners, and to new climbs... and whatever else may be on your mind...
here's to this season...
cheers!
i'll have to say that hueco has been a complete success for me. new grades (i'm psyched to have done a few soft 10s (you gotta break into the grade somehow, right -if not just bulking up on 9s), new climbs (super-new, hidden away gems -i may have even done an FA, at hueco!), and new friends (people who know people who i know, and now i know people who know people, you know? i know!). good times... good times. .
as my time here comes to a close though, 2 major things come to the forefront which necessitate (hopefully only) a week of rest: 80 degree weather and a knuckle the size of a quarter.
the weather is telling enough. the latter is some sort of joint inflammation due to overuse/overwork/stress; the big knuckle of my left ring finger is experiencing some increased, acute pain. the sheath that surrounds the tendon that encompasses the joint, i believe (based on multiple conversations with people who've experienced similar pain, and who have previously spoken with some sort of finger specialist), is worn down and not getting enough lubrication. if that is in fact correct, i can tape the finger, even buddy tape, and continue climbing, with no ill effects. to be sure, i'm taking time off to help speed the recovery process and to try and ensure no further damage. and of course, i'll have to limit the load i put on it.
i've been nursing the knuckle for most of my trip here, not thinking much more than it just being the usual stiffness. warming it up slow, loosening/stretching it before climbing, taking anti-imflammatories; whatever precautions i can think of -aside from, of course, complete rest. it seemed to have worked, up until the last few days; the joint pain has come to a head though and now i can't even bend it completely. so i am forced to rest (which is no problem because of this coming heat and volunteer responsibilities with the upcoming Rock Rodeo). especially if i plan to continue climbing for the remaining months leading up to this summer: hopefully heading for bishop, ca and cooler temps next monday or tuesday; and on to joe's valley in utah when it seems to hot there.
so raise a glass with me: to personal progression/victories, to friends & climbing partners, and to new climbs... and whatever else may be on your mind...
here's to this season...
cheers!
Sunday, February 22, 2009
IT'S SOMEONE'S FIRST DAY AND SOMEONE'S LAST AT HUECO
[song: interlude & hysteria by muse]
i just dropped kyle and greg off at the airport. yesterday was their last day in the park. we warmed up in gusty winds and sought shelter in the stegasaur (8) corridor. it's a cool fin feature in a roof that leads to 2 tenuous moves on the face. it took a couple go's to figure out the sequence, then we promptly ran the train on it.
after that we met up with mike and steph as greg worked out the first half of dean's journey (10). then we went to the east side of north where kyle dispatched of 99 heroin balloons (8/9) rather quickly. it took a few more go's for me, but i ended up getting this awesome power-compression, overhanging prow.
then on to the front side where we tried a couple other things in the late afternoon. where we met dave g and chad g and somebody olson. ryan, i think managed out an ascent of el techo de los tres b's (11?). the climb used to be a 13 before a hold was chipped/broken last week. there are 2 people i was aware of that were working it, but both of them were surprised to return the day after it happend to see that it might possibly be a little easier now. it's still an awesome climb.
other than that, greg and kyle had a good day on friday as well: sending all their respective projects. kyle got black mamba (10) and greg got pfos (his first 9). they also both quickly dispatched with chris's arete (8)... among other 7s & 8s for the trip. great job to both!
my day on friday was a step into new realms. ever since i started climbing i have watched climbing videos. and ever since i've watched climbing videos i've rarely been able to climb on problems that i've even seen in person. but that's changing apparently.
we took a crew into the spur on east mountain and i was able to do purple flowers again (this time completely clean (felt good, still had to try). then we spent the bulk of the day on 2 classic, harder problems: the flame and rumble in the jungle (both i think may have been downgraded to 11). and i climbed on both. i was able to climb the flame into the crux move, (even though i haven't yet done the move, even in isolation) which is a hard left hand stab into "the ear" that's facing the "wrong" way. and now i've got rumble down to almost 2 sections. i have to do a double step-thru to link the beginning and the end. it's basically doing two 8s maybe back-to-back = power-endurance. we have another tour scheduled for tuesday. i'm resting today and probably tomorrow, so i should hopefully be able to make some progress on both. at least do "the move" on the flame, and hopefully get further into rumble from the beginning. we'll see. either way, they are both super-cool; and the vibe is always positive.
it's fun, this whole climbing full-time thing. one week left at hueco :(
stay motivated!
[fingers crossed: more pics soon]
i just dropped kyle and greg off at the airport. yesterday was their last day in the park. we warmed up in gusty winds and sought shelter in the stegasaur (8) corridor. it's a cool fin feature in a roof that leads to 2 tenuous moves on the face. it took a couple go's to figure out the sequence, then we promptly ran the train on it. after that we met up with mike and steph as greg worked out the first half of dean's journey (10). then we went to the east side of north where kyle dispatched of 99 heroin balloons (8/9) rather quickly. it took a few more go's for me, but i ended up getting this awesome power-compression, overhanging prow.
then on to the front side where we tried a couple other things in the late afternoon. where we met dave g and chad g and somebody olson. ryan, i think managed out an ascent of el techo de los tres b's (11?). the climb used to be a 13 before a hold was chipped/broken last week. there are 2 people i was aware of that were working it, but both of them were surprised to return the day after it happend to see that it might possibly be a little easier now. it's still an awesome climb.
other than that, greg and kyle had a good day on friday as well: sending all their respective projects. kyle got black mamba (10) and greg got pfos (his first 9). they also both quickly dispatched with chris's arete (8)... among other 7s & 8s for the trip. great job to both!
my day on friday was a step into new realms. ever since i started climbing i have watched climbing videos. and ever since i've watched climbing videos i've rarely been able to climb on problems that i've even seen in person. but that's changing apparently.
we took a crew into the spur on east mountain and i was able to do purple flowers again (this time completely clean (felt good, still had to try). then we spent the bulk of the day on 2 classic, harder problems: the flame and rumble in the jungle (both i think may have been downgraded to 11). and i climbed on both. i was able to climb the flame into the crux move, (even though i haven't yet done the move, even in isolation) which is a hard left hand stab into "the ear" that's facing the "wrong" way. and now i've got rumble down to almost 2 sections. i have to do a double step-thru to link the beginning and the end. it's basically doing two 8s maybe back-to-back = power-endurance. we have another tour scheduled for tuesday. i'm resting today and probably tomorrow, so i should hopefully be able to make some progress on both. at least do "the move" on the flame, and hopefully get further into rumble from the beginning. we'll see. either way, they are both super-cool; and the vibe is always positive.
it's fun, this whole climbing full-time thing. one week left at hueco :(
stay motivated!
[fingers crossed: more pics soon]
Thursday, February 19, 2009
"ANOTHER ONE BITES THE DUST"
[song: right in the head by m.ward]
CHAPTER 1
greg and kyle are down to 2 days of climbing left (after their rest day today). they've been putting a pretty good hurtin' on the rocks here at hueco. it's been fun hanging out when i've gotten a chance. eating burritos & burgers, drinking beer, watching the family guy, talking about funny movies, and getting in a little climbing of course. it'll be a shame to see them go.
CHAPTER 2
in climbing, and oft times in life, i've learned that wanting something and attaining it are one thing, but the process by which that something is attained is often different from the initial perceived means.
example:
i now have done black mamba. finally. but the sequence i used ended up being different from what i first figured out. which on one hand seems ridiculous since there are only 5 holds for the bulk of the problem; but it makes sense that you could reconfigure said holds in a couple different ways, which is what i did. i would have preferred to do it the "traditional" way, but that sequence proved to be harder for me.
in short, as my scottish friend gary says, i am properly chuffed (meaning happy, excited, et al. and in no way similar to being, as the americans say, a chuffer).
CHAPTER 3
having accomplished all goals for the trip i am set to work on a new uber-project: rumble in the jungle. i was on it tuesday and did almost all the moves. then yesterday was royally pysched to get it down to 3 sections. it's the hardest thing i've tried, and maybe the best line. i am excited to get on it again tomorrow with the crew: brian, ander, chris, and gustavo; and hopefully get it down to 2 sections. i'll try to get some footage or pics. . . it's sooo good.
be good and keep it real. . .
hugs and kisses!
CHAPTER 1
greg and kyle are down to 2 days of climbing left (after their rest day today). they've been putting a pretty good hurtin' on the rocks here at hueco. it's been fun hanging out when i've gotten a chance. eating burritos & burgers, drinking beer, watching the family guy, talking about funny movies, and getting in a little climbing of course. it'll be a shame to see them go.
CHAPTER 2
in climbing, and oft times in life, i've learned that wanting something and attaining it are one thing, but the process by which that something is attained is often different from the initial perceived means.
example:
i now have done black mamba. finally. but the sequence i used ended up being different from what i first figured out. which on one hand seems ridiculous since there are only 5 holds for the bulk of the problem; but it makes sense that you could reconfigure said holds in a couple different ways, which is what i did. i would have preferred to do it the "traditional" way, but that sequence proved to be harder for me.in short, as my scottish friend gary says, i am properly chuffed (meaning happy, excited, et al. and in no way similar to being, as the americans say, a chuffer).
CHAPTER 3
having accomplished all goals for the trip i am set to work on a new uber-project: rumble in the jungle. i was on it tuesday and did almost all the moves. then yesterday was royally pysched to get it down to 3 sections. it's the hardest thing i've tried, and maybe the best line. i am excited to get on it again tomorrow with the crew: brian, ander, chris, and gustavo; and hopefully get it down to 2 sections. i'll try to get some footage or pics. . . it's sooo good.
be good and keep it real. . .
hugs and kisses!
Thursday, February 12, 2009
BUCKABROTHERBILL
[song: somebody told me by the killers]
quick note:
first of all, i've been able to climb with 'famous' climbers here at the tanks and it's been fun. they're stronger than me, of course, but above that they are really just down to earth people (most, at least) who love rock climbing... and they also think i'm really funny.
anyway...
stuck the high sloper on black mamba (the 2nd/hard move) from the start, but my lower hand came screaming off: NO!! next day for sure.
i did manage to do fern roof completely clean 2nd go of the day. it felt great! (picture shows me before the bump move with my left hand, before the dyno to the pointy looking jug over the lip off the heel). [you can find a video on vimeo of some guy doing it close to the same way i do (it's at about the 3 minute mark in the video... with good footage of other hueco problems, too)]
super psyched!
good luck to you, dear reader, wherever you are, with whatever you're doing!
quick note:
first of all, i've been able to climb with 'famous' climbers here at the tanks and it's been fun. they're stronger than me, of course, but above that they are really just down to earth people (most, at least) who love rock climbing... and they also think i'm really funny.
anyway...
stuck the high sloper on black mamba (the 2nd/hard move) from the start, but my lower hand came screaming off: NO!! next day for sure.
i did manage to do fern roof completely clean 2nd go of the day. it felt great! (picture shows me before the bump move with my left hand, before the dyno to the pointy looking jug over the lip off the heel). [you can find a video on vimeo of some guy doing it close to the same way i do (it's at about the 3 minute mark in the video... with good footage of other hueco problems, too)]
super psyched!
good luck to you, dear reader, wherever you are, with whatever you're doing!
Tuesday, February 10, 2009
WINDY IS AS WINDY DOES
[song: frontier psychiatry by the avalanches]
the wind gust are crazy today in el paso. up to 40 or 50 mph, and pretty much non-stop. we were on tour in the back country and it was pretty cold with the wind, even though the sun started showing its face this afternoon. yes, and it snowed this morning. nothing stuck but it was half of white-out conditions. pretty cool. did the highball 4 fight or flight in it; the last move being the crux (basically a dyno off a left-facing, good crimp rail to a flat sloper... not to mention a heady top-out) at about 20 feet off the deck, so that was for sure the tick of the day.
i finally feel like i'm coming out of my slump. 2 days ago did a few 6 repeats and a bunch of stuff under that grade. the day was mostly a hangout day though. we had a great day. climbed with some really strong guys. i mean, it's strong when you flash a 10 or two in a day right?!
anyway, yesterday was the kicker for me. wasn't really sure how it was gonna go; felt pretty sore and tight in the morning, but just warmed up slow on a bunch of easy highballs. then broke off from some folks from boone, nc (bill & andy & heath) and tried fern roof (9/10). it actually went really well: 1st go for the day i made the big triple bump move easily (i don't do it the kneebar way [which is like an 8 or 9 now] mostly becos it's more fun the way it used to be done and it suits me better -even though it's supposed to be "harder"), but was a little pumped and fell.. 2nd go i did the same and then caught the big dyno move out over the lip to the jug... that's where i kicked the pad with both feet. i finished it out no problem; i just have to go back and do it without the dab. i feel really good about it though.
after that saw andy almost do power of silence (10), and bill got chablanke (11) down to one move. then we went over and worked on loaded with power (10) with them and mike wohner and this guy alex and a few others. i did all the easy moves, but couldn't trust the heel hook to make a move out across my body to a slopey pinch. i was pleased though. i could get to that move consistently, so i'll work the last half later.
after all that, mike and i wanted to finish up on the front side with some stuff that he hadn't seen. so i showed him a dyno i did the other day, the smooth move (8), and another awesome dyno, slick watts (5). i can now say i've done an 8 in my approach shoes (even the crocs); granted, you have huge feet with 2 good underclings up a blank, slick-rocked face to a flat ledge about 7 feet away. i would have to say it's easier than the cinderella dyno. regardless, it was super fun. the 5 has an okay left foot, bad slopey crimps on a more overhung bulgy arete with a high, core-intesive right foot where you create momentum to go around a bulge with your left hand to a jug about 4 feet up. you feel like kareem abdul-jabar sky-hooking while deciding at the last minute to just slam dunk it! it's super fun as well.
oh, and i saw three chubby havalinas running across a field about 20 yards away this morning. that was cool. moving a lot faster than they first appear to be able to.
the wind gust are crazy today in el paso. up to 40 or 50 mph, and pretty much non-stop. we were on tour in the back country and it was pretty cold with the wind, even though the sun started showing its face this afternoon. yes, and it snowed this morning. nothing stuck but it was half of white-out conditions. pretty cool. did the highball 4 fight or flight in it; the last move being the crux (basically a dyno off a left-facing, good crimp rail to a flat sloper... not to mention a heady top-out) at about 20 feet off the deck, so that was for sure the tick of the day.
i finally feel like i'm coming out of my slump. 2 days ago did a few 6 repeats and a bunch of stuff under that grade. the day was mostly a hangout day though. we had a great day. climbed with some really strong guys. i mean, it's strong when you flash a 10 or two in a day right?!
anyway, yesterday was the kicker for me. wasn't really sure how it was gonna go; felt pretty sore and tight in the morning, but just warmed up slow on a bunch of easy highballs. then broke off from some folks from boone, nc (bill & andy & heath) and tried fern roof (9/10). it actually went really well: 1st go for the day i made the big triple bump move easily (i don't do it the kneebar way [which is like an 8 or 9 now] mostly becos it's more fun the way it used to be done and it suits me better -even though it's supposed to be "harder"), but was a little pumped and fell.. 2nd go i did the same and then caught the big dyno move out over the lip to the jug... that's where i kicked the pad with both feet. i finished it out no problem; i just have to go back and do it without the dab. i feel really good about it though.
after that saw andy almost do power of silence (10), and bill got chablanke (11) down to one move. then we went over and worked on loaded with power (10) with them and mike wohner and this guy alex and a few others. i did all the easy moves, but couldn't trust the heel hook to make a move out across my body to a slopey pinch. i was pleased though. i could get to that move consistently, so i'll work the last half later.
after all that, mike and i wanted to finish up on the front side with some stuff that he hadn't seen. so i showed him a dyno i did the other day, the smooth move (8), and another awesome dyno, slick watts (5). i can now say i've done an 8 in my approach shoes (even the crocs); granted, you have huge feet with 2 good underclings up a blank, slick-rocked face to a flat ledge about 7 feet away. i would have to say it's easier than the cinderella dyno. regardless, it was super fun. the 5 has an okay left foot, bad slopey crimps on a more overhung bulgy arete with a high, core-intesive right foot where you create momentum to go around a bulge with your left hand to a jug about 4 feet up. you feel like kareem abdul-jabar sky-hooking while deciding at the last minute to just slam dunk it! it's super fun as well.
oh, and i saw three chubby havalinas running across a field about 20 yards away this morning. that was cool. moving a lot faster than they first appear to be able to.
Monday, February 9, 2009
"I STILL WISH I COULD BREATHE UNDERWATER"
[song: rebel rebel by seu jorge]
i want to divulge a little known fact about myself here. something i don't know if anyone who will read this will previously know about me. something you will learn very soon.
it all began back in college. sophmore year, let's say. i used to have the hiccups just like the rest of you. even the "burp-ups" from time-to-time. sometimes they wouldn't last too long, but other times they were just annoying at best with their duration. until one day...
i learned somewhere (or maybe just heard from someone) that in the back of your throat everyone had a little flap (i'm lost for any doctor-speak on specifics) -maybe attached to or connected to the lungs in someway. and when this flap would "malfunction" and stay shut you couldn't get proper airflow and this would cause a hiccup in your breathing.
as it goes, my friend jim and i surmised that if we could use mind-over-matter and control our bodies to do what we wanted we could possibly fix this "flap" problem, and eleviate the DURATION of said hiccups. so not really knowing exactly how to do that i decided the next time i came down with a case of the hiccups i would concentrate on trying to open that flap and to make it stay open.
long story short, next time you're around and i start to hiccup begin to count the number of hiccups i'll incur. i promise, it won't last very long. as it goes, since that day i've not had more than 3 hiccups in a row, within a day; and usually i only suffer 1 or 2. i can't exactly tell you there is some magical encantation to say or some mythical mantra to repeat in your head. maybe god looked down on me and had pity; i don't know. i just know that i tried to stop having lasting hiccups that day; and that day something happened. i'm lucky, i guess; maybe blessed. mostly just thankful.
as it turns out, it is often the little things that make me the happiest.
i want to divulge a little known fact about myself here. something i don't know if anyone who will read this will previously know about me. something you will learn very soon.
it all began back in college. sophmore year, let's say. i used to have the hiccups just like the rest of you. even the "burp-ups" from time-to-time. sometimes they wouldn't last too long, but other times they were just annoying at best with their duration. until one day...
i learned somewhere (or maybe just heard from someone) that in the back of your throat everyone had a little flap (i'm lost for any doctor-speak on specifics) -maybe attached to or connected to the lungs in someway. and when this flap would "malfunction" and stay shut you couldn't get proper airflow and this would cause a hiccup in your breathing.
as it goes, my friend jim and i surmised that if we could use mind-over-matter and control our bodies to do what we wanted we could possibly fix this "flap" problem, and eleviate the DURATION of said hiccups. so not really knowing exactly how to do that i decided the next time i came down with a case of the hiccups i would concentrate on trying to open that flap and to make it stay open.
long story short, next time you're around and i start to hiccup begin to count the number of hiccups i'll incur. i promise, it won't last very long. as it goes, since that day i've not had more than 3 hiccups in a row, within a day; and usually i only suffer 1 or 2. i can't exactly tell you there is some magical encantation to say or some mythical mantra to repeat in your head. maybe god looked down on me and had pity; i don't know. i just know that i tried to stop having lasting hiccups that day; and that day something happened. i'm lucky, i guess; maybe blessed. mostly just thankful.
as it turns out, it is often the little things that make me the happiest.
Friday, February 6, 2009
"THUUGG LIIIFE"
[song: hard knock life by jay-z]
there's a break in the weather coming here, soon, and that's a good thing. (i know i can't complain with the weather being so hot since they've been having bad luck back east -sorry to hear about all that, and i hope it's getting better.)
i've narrowed my scope of problems by quite a margin in the last week or so. i originally had about 2 dozen problems i wanted to get on/ work. and after having gotten on a lot of them, i've realized i need to put many of them off for the future. i'm down to about 7 or 9 must-do's before the rock rodeo (which is the 28th of this month). that gives me roughly 3 weeks. half or more are 6s & 7s, which i should be able to do with in a day (maybe even knocking a couple out in a day), but there are 3 others that take more effort: black mamba, fern roof, and 1969. i've been on the first two, and came close on fern roof (not the knee-bar way) the other day, but the last one i haven't seen yet -and black mamba might be the hardest for me. but tuesday is going to be 56 and windy (so i'm resting sunday and monday in preparation for that).
today was a shite day of climbing; did get close on 99 heroine balloons (a cool, a-typical hueco problem full of compression -8/9), but i felt horrible regardless. hopefully tomorrow will be better. the day before yesterday was good though: got back on and finished dry dock (7)-fell off the top-out 3 times total before doing it: one of my favorites for sure, though.
anyway, got to run. the park is closing up. love you all, bye!
there's a break in the weather coming here, soon, and that's a good thing. (i know i can't complain with the weather being so hot since they've been having bad luck back east -sorry to hear about all that, and i hope it's getting better.)
i've narrowed my scope of problems by quite a margin in the last week or so. i originally had about 2 dozen problems i wanted to get on/ work. and after having gotten on a lot of them, i've realized i need to put many of them off for the future. i'm down to about 7 or 9 must-do's before the rock rodeo (which is the 28th of this month). that gives me roughly 3 weeks. half or more are 6s & 7s, which i should be able to do with in a day (maybe even knocking a couple out in a day), but there are 3 others that take more effort: black mamba, fern roof, and 1969. i've been on the first two, and came close on fern roof (not the knee-bar way) the other day, but the last one i haven't seen yet -and black mamba might be the hardest for me. but tuesday is going to be 56 and windy (so i'm resting sunday and monday in preparation for that).
today was a shite day of climbing; did get close on 99 heroine balloons (a cool, a-typical hueco problem full of compression -8/9), but i felt horrible regardless. hopefully tomorrow will be better. the day before yesterday was good though: got back on and finished dry dock (7)-fell off the top-out 3 times total before doing it: one of my favorites for sure, though.
anyway, got to run. the park is closing up. love you all, bye!
Monday, February 2, 2009
"REMEMBER SEEK(FORGETTING FIND)"
[song: le vent nous portera by noir desir & manu chao]
i guess you could say that i've reached the half-way point here at hueco tanks. if i were to leave today, i would be completely satisfied with my trip so far. i have seen old friends, met new friends, and climbed with them all. i have climbed high and low, hard and soft; and it was all worth the while. i could be ready for new adventures, new friends, and new climbs. but as it goes (so fortunate am i), i have another month here at hueco. i have more friends from back east visiting in less than a couple weeks: greg and kyle from louisville. i can't wait for kyle to make a return trip and for greg to make his first visit to the bouldering mecca of north america. i have so much more to do here anyway, so there won't be a lack of any motivation to keep climbing. especially with 'fresh blood' so close to being on their way.
with a little less than a month here at the boulders, i've been able to see alot, climb many, and send a few. i've had tendinitis, which i've staved off by many upon many days of push-ups. of course you take the bad with the good. as the last few days have been the worst so far: not being able to get past the warm-ups. but alas, having a cold-of-sorts doesn't come without a price. i've pushed myself too hard, have fallen too deep, and am stepping back for a long couple of days (practically 4) to fully recover. i've learned to embrace forced rests and let them live up to their own potential; it's been rewarding.
today is another nice, quiet, restful day. kicking back and soaking in the blazing sun, sweating out the maladies and shedding weeks of unkempt hair and dirt. if i am to perpetuate this climbing spree with fervor i am required to be deliberate in taking these simple steps (the resting, not the shower) to assure continued success. with as much time as i have left, it's really little to ask.
so i take to reflecting what's transpired thus far:
remembering the joy of what i've achieved;
reeling from the seemingly-so-close-to-success failures;
smiling in a sigh of contentment all the while. knowing that all is behind, presenting me perfectly to what lies ahead. i am conscious of this moment and aware of its movement. i am ready to face what is to come, presently.
i guess you could say that i've reached the half-way point here at hueco tanks. if i were to leave today, i would be completely satisfied with my trip so far. i have seen old friends, met new friends, and climbed with them all. i have climbed high and low, hard and soft; and it was all worth the while. i could be ready for new adventures, new friends, and new climbs. but as it goes (so fortunate am i), i have another month here at hueco. i have more friends from back east visiting in less than a couple weeks: greg and kyle from louisville. i can't wait for kyle to make a return trip and for greg to make his first visit to the bouldering mecca of north america. i have so much more to do here anyway, so there won't be a lack of any motivation to keep climbing. especially with 'fresh blood' so close to being on their way.
with a little less than a month here at the boulders, i've been able to see alot, climb many, and send a few. i've had tendinitis, which i've staved off by many upon many days of push-ups. of course you take the bad with the good. as the last few days have been the worst so far: not being able to get past the warm-ups. but alas, having a cold-of-sorts doesn't come without a price. i've pushed myself too hard, have fallen too deep, and am stepping back for a long couple of days (practically 4) to fully recover. i've learned to embrace forced rests and let them live up to their own potential; it's been rewarding.
today is another nice, quiet, restful day. kicking back and soaking in the blazing sun, sweating out the maladies and shedding weeks of unkempt hair and dirt. if i am to perpetuate this climbing spree with fervor i am required to be deliberate in taking these simple steps (the resting, not the shower) to assure continued success. with as much time as i have left, it's really little to ask. so i take to reflecting what's transpired thus far:
remembering the joy of what i've achieved;
reeling from the seemingly-so-close-to-success failures;smiling in a sigh of contentment all the while. knowing that all is behind, presenting me perfectly to what lies ahead. i am conscious of this moment and aware of its movement. i am ready to face what is to come, presently.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
