[lost coastlines by okkerville river]
i wake this morning in a virtually vacant mall parking lot to violent winds, attacking everything in sight; except for those of us nestled in the warmth of shelter. as i make my way toward breakfast and the morning news i am greeted by the accompanying (what will end up being inches and inches of) snow that salt lake city has to offer me, on this our first day together (some impression, right?).
i'm on to the next chapter in my roadtrip: joe's valley, utah. situated a couple hours south of this thriving metropolis. i pray the week down there brings better weather, better temps, and and all-around improving enjoyment of travel and rockclimbings (seeing as how i tore an A4 pulley last thursday on a problem hardly worth attempting, and hoping 4-5 days off will suffice for enough recovery to allow me to sample the sandstone goodness i will soon lay my eyes upon).
in other news, i finished the road by cormac mccarthy: simply put, a good book. SPOILERISH: the end was rather sad (as one could expect from an apocalyptic tale), but somehow the last paragraph made it all okay. how could something so simple and unassuming and seemingly out of left field do that (though so apropos)? kinda weird i thought, but it goes to show a powerful author full of an understanding i wish to create myself.
peace be your journey
Sunday, March 29, 2009
Saturday, March 28, 2009
A LOOK BACK
[top drawer by man man]
up to rock creek
chris at the campground boulder (rock creek)
camping at the 'milks
poker nite at steve's 'palace'
at the last fire
the road and what i left behind saturday morning
up to rock creek
chris at the campground boulder (rock creek)
camping at the 'milks
poker nite at steve's 'palace'
at the last fire
the road and what i left behind saturday morning
Friday, March 27, 2009
Wednesday, March 25, 2009
GLEANING OBSERVATIONS OF TRAVEL: AND INCONSEQUENTIAL INFORMATION
[i see a darkness by bonnie prince billy]
it's interesting all the familiar faces the road brings. time and time again personalities i've met before with a similar face or a slightly reminiscent voice. how we all are just about the same -even i'm the new familiarity of one situated in a separate time and place...
patricks are gregs, gregs are kevins, and kevins are aarons.
reminding us all of all of us; returning again to reach out and being reached in return. happiness is found in other people, with other people, and with it a quality to be shared again, if (even) for the first time.
__________________________________________________________________
so bishop...
the buttermilks. sharp.
the happys. fun.
the bouldering's different here, as it is in most areas (in relation to another type of rock/area). i'll probably get used to it by time i leave, which is by the end of this weekend. next stop joe's in utah, with my friend brian from boston and meet up with rachel who'll be in salt lake.
i've managed a bunch of 6s since day one, but that's the limit as of right now. i've tried a couple 8s, but gotten closer on more 9s; there's a few that i think i could manage with a another day or 2 of work (toxic avenger, the moonraker).
still, such a beautiful place.
the sierras, moonlit hot springs, blue skies, and lots of beautiful and varying rock. and a good crew of friends (mostly migrated from hueco, each with a different stop in between). adrian, praire, gary the scot, brian, rachel, james and dave the kiwis, dave, chris, helen... and lots and lots of wine.
newly developed boulder miles down the road
rachel (aka giggles) rockin' up on another beautiful, newly developed line on the fish loop boulder
it's interesting all the familiar faces the road brings. time and time again personalities i've met before with a similar face or a slightly reminiscent voice. how we all are just about the same -even i'm the new familiarity of one situated in a separate time and place...
patricks are gregs, gregs are kevins, and kevins are aarons.
reminding us all of all of us; returning again to reach out and being reached in return. happiness is found in other people, with other people, and with it a quality to be shared again, if (even) for the first time.
__________________________________________________________________
so bishop...
the buttermilks. sharp.
the happys. fun.
the bouldering's different here, as it is in most areas (in relation to another type of rock/area). i'll probably get used to it by time i leave, which is by the end of this weekend. next stop joe's in utah, with my friend brian from boston and meet up with rachel who'll be in salt lake.
i've managed a bunch of 6s since day one, but that's the limit as of right now. i've tried a couple 8s, but gotten closer on more 9s; there's a few that i think i could manage with a another day or 2 of work (toxic avenger, the moonraker).
still, such a beautiful place.
the sierras, moonlit hot springs, blue skies, and lots of beautiful and varying rock. and a good crew of friends (mostly migrated from hueco, each with a different stop in between). adrian, praire, gary the scot, brian, rachel, james and dave the kiwis, dave, chris, helen... and lots and lots of wine.
newly developed boulder miles down the road
rachel (aka giggles) rockin' up on another beautiful, newly developed line on the fish loop boulder
Sunday, March 22, 2009
A BUTTERMILKS PICTURE POST
[wagon wheel by o.c.m.s.]
seven spanish angels
ironman traverse
birthday direct
the turtle-er gets turtle-ed
seven spanish angels
ironman traverse
birthday direct
the turtle-er gets turtle-ed
Wednesday, March 18, 2009
GOIN' BACK TO CALI, TO CALI, TO CALI
[damn it feels good to be a gangsta by geto boys]
actually this is the first time i've been to cali. i had a job offer in mammoth a couple years back for the start of some seasonal work, but for various reasons decided to turn it down.
but here i am... this time a little further south than i would have been: bishop. the rock here is sharp, but mostly pretty positive (which i like). had a good first tour yesterday of the buttermilks, hitting up some of the classics, i guess. most everything here is pretty high. i was only a little freaked out on one yesterday, which was the tallest thing i did. it wasn't even that hard, just really crimpy and foot-trustworthy. the feet didn't feel trustworthy though; they felt polished, if not just slick. but all in all, i held it together and finished it out.
it's good to challenge the head from time to time. my body knows its limits, but my head does not; not as of late anyway. i've had some pretty trying times up high this year, and getting older (i'm far from being an invincible teen), the risks weigh heavier than personal glory i can imagine. battles are fought and war is waged, and currently no battle will be fought without absolute belief in future victory.
i don't have access to my photos right now (no wireless today -just library computer access), but as soon as i get them i'll be sure to post the beauty that is the present chapter in my roadtrip life.
love and nutella for all
actually this is the first time i've been to cali. i had a job offer in mammoth a couple years back for the start of some seasonal work, but for various reasons decided to turn it down. but here i am... this time a little further south than i would have been: bishop. the rock here is sharp, but mostly pretty positive (which i like). had a good first tour yesterday of the buttermilks, hitting up some of the classics, i guess. most everything here is pretty high. i was only a little freaked out on one yesterday, which was the tallest thing i did. it wasn't even that hard, just really crimpy and foot-trustworthy. the feet didn't feel trustworthy though; they felt polished, if not just slick. but all in all, i held it together and finished it out.
it's good to challenge the head from time to time. my body knows its limits, but my head does not; not as of late anyway. i've had some pretty trying times up high this year, and getting older (i'm far from being an invincible teen), the risks weigh heavier than personal glory i can imagine. battles are fought and war is waged, and currently no battle will be fought without absolute belief in future victory.
i don't have access to my photos right now (no wireless today -just library computer access), but as soon as i get them i'll be sure to post the beauty that is the present chapter in my roadtrip life.
love and nutella for all
Monday, March 16, 2009
OAK FLATS AND PRIEST DRAW
[el cuarto de tula by buena vista social club]
today i leave for bishop, ca. 13 hours down from denver to phoenix, and now i have 9 more hours of road ahead of me before i get to settle down for a couple weeks in cali. i've never been to bishop yet so i'm pretty excited to experience all it has to offer on a first trip.
but before that, a picture recap from my weekend in phoenix.
QUEEN CREEK/ OAK FLATS
my gracious hosts for the weekend: beatrice and gustavo
a view from atop a topout
finishing off a nice warm-up
FLAGSTAFF/ PRIEST DRAW
part of the crew for the day (me, pete, gustavo)
gustavo finishing up figuring out the moves on a girl from emponima(sp?)
sticking the move on anorexic
today i leave for bishop, ca. 13 hours down from denver to phoenix, and now i have 9 more hours of road ahead of me before i get to settle down for a couple weeks in cali. i've never been to bishop yet so i'm pretty excited to experience all it has to offer on a first trip.
but before that, a picture recap from my weekend in phoenix.
QUEEN CREEK/ OAK FLATS
my gracious hosts for the weekend: beatrice and gustavo 
a view from atop a topout
finishing off a nice warm-up
FLAGSTAFF/ PRIEST DRAW
part of the crew for the day (me, pete, gustavo)
gustavo finishing up figuring out the moves on a girl from emponima(sp?)
sticking the move on anorexic
Saturday, March 14, 2009
THE COWBOY LOUNGE
[sleepyhead by passion pit]
so my last nite in denver, which was my first nite-out in denver, was quite a nite (i was only in denver for 2 days visiting a friend before coming down to phoenix for the weekend). i didn't think i could out-do my first nite-out in boulder, but by getting kicked out of the bar within a couple hours, it sounds like i may have done just that.
all the "bouncers" had boots, jeans, belt buckles, and cowboy hats, of course. and much to our chagrin there was a country song filling up the streets as we made our way closer, and line-dancing spilling out from the inside. but since ander and i were going to meet his friend rachel, we had to go in and check it out. the music ended being decent and the dance floor itself wasn't too bad either. we had a beer and then a round of shots (we previously had a couple beers before going down to market street to start the evening). after hitting the dance floor we sat down at our booth to relax and catch our breathe for a minute.
it was lady's nite, meaning all the ladies drank for free. and all the lady's got their drinks in plastic cups.
so seeing as how the bar-b!tch kept walking by and looking at our table of almost empty cups, i decided to finish off the back-wash that was settling in the one in front of me (honestly not even thinking about it)... and apparently the little cowboy that asked me if he could "have a word" with me didn't like it.
"i'm going to have to ask you to leave."
"are you kidding me," i said.
"no. the beer is free for ladies. and i saw you finish off her beer; it's like you're stealing from us."
"the foam that i drank?" you're kidding; this is ridiculous."
"no, you understand."
"yeah, sure, i understand," i said... "i understand you all are a bunch of idiots."
...and that's when we left (and when i got escorted out), and made our way around the corner to a nice little jazz bar until everything was closing up. it was low-key and a good change of pace from the aforementioned chach hang-out.
...who woulda thunk it...
so my last nite in denver, which was my first nite-out in denver, was quite a nite (i was only in denver for 2 days visiting a friend before coming down to phoenix for the weekend). i didn't think i could out-do my first nite-out in boulder, but by getting kicked out of the bar within a couple hours, it sounds like i may have done just that.all the "bouncers" had boots, jeans, belt buckles, and cowboy hats, of course. and much to our chagrin there was a country song filling up the streets as we made our way closer, and line-dancing spilling out from the inside. but since ander and i were going to meet his friend rachel, we had to go in and check it out. the music ended being decent and the dance floor itself wasn't too bad either. we had a beer and then a round of shots (we previously had a couple beers before going down to market street to start the evening). after hitting the dance floor we sat down at our booth to relax and catch our breathe for a minute.
it was lady's nite, meaning all the ladies drank for free. and all the lady's got their drinks in plastic cups.
so seeing as how the bar-b!tch kept walking by and looking at our table of almost empty cups, i decided to finish off the back-wash that was settling in the one in front of me (honestly not even thinking about it)... and apparently the little cowboy that asked me if he could "have a word" with me didn't like it.
"i'm going to have to ask you to leave."
"are you kidding me," i said.
"no. the beer is free for ladies. and i saw you finish off her beer; it's like you're stealing from us."
"the foam that i drank?" you're kidding; this is ridiculous."
"no, you understand."
"yeah, sure, i understand," i said... "i understand you all are a bunch of idiots."
...and that's when we left (and when i got escorted out), and made our way around the corner to a nice little jazz bar until everything was closing up. it was low-key and a good change of pace from the aforementioned chach hang-out.
...who woulda thunk it...
Thursday, March 12, 2009
NILESMAN AND MISS NILESMAN
[mistaken for strangers by the national]
it won't be long until my friend and his girlfriend arrive in boulder for a stay (april 6-12). niles is my old climbing partner and housemate from the red. his girlfriend jenna's sister lives in boulder and they'll be 'killing 2 birds with one stone' on a double-duty vacation.
it's been at least 3 months since i've seen him and am excited to get to climb again and experience some more of colorado with him (his first time as well).
the road is a great place for new faces, but even more heartwarming to experience a new place with old friends. i look forward to their arrival and wish them a bon voyage.
it won't be long until my friend and his girlfriend arrive in boulder for a stay (april 6-12). niles is my old climbing partner and housemate from the red. his girlfriend jenna's sister lives in boulder and they'll be 'killing 2 birds with one stone' on a double-duty vacation.it's been at least 3 months since i've seen him and am excited to get to climb again and experience some more of colorado with him (his first time as well).
the road is a great place for new faces, but even more heartwarming to experience a new place with old friends. i look forward to their arrival and wish them a bon voyage.
Monday, March 9, 2009
BOULDERING ON THE BOULDERS IN BOULDER
[so what by miles davis]
finally... so happy to be "out there" again. aside from still having a slight 'trigger finger', my knuckle seems to be holding up under the pressures of rockclimbing. the plan is day-on, day-off, for awhile at least; to ensure continual recovery.
i got to climb friday for the 1st time in over 2 weeks. it felt so good. went to the flatirons with nick, dan, joe, jeremy, and a few others from boulder. did lots of easy warm-ups before stepping it up into the intermediate range. got shut-down on a 5 vert crimp/balance thingy. then flashed a 4/5 roof that was super fun.
then i was actually pretty surprised that i got close on the area classic turning point (8). it didn't matter that i fell on the last couple moves, b/c i was so happy to be climbing anything. after that went and did all the warm-ups again to cool down; and finished the day out on a couple low-balls we missed in the morning.
here's some more pics from the pine needle forest:
pictured left is turning point. sorry you can't see the slopers and crimps on the sunny side of the face.
here's ander doing what he does best: messing w/ people, especially while they're climbing! and sometimes he climbs (but only indoors for right now).
________________________________________________________
also got out on sunday to another area in the flatirons called the terrain boulders. quite a hike this one: 45 minutes uphill, but worth it. did quite a few moderates, including a flash of a highball/solo (5). it was a little scary since i was the 1st to go up, not knowing where to go because there was no chalk; but sacked up and finished it (only because i didn't want to jump off from 15 feet, half-way up. it was more heady than hard).
saw an old friend, jen sauer, who lives in denver now. once again a fun day with a good crew in a new area.
finished off the day flashing parasol 5 and making quick work of plush 7 and kenny g's meat whistle 8. in addition, i lost the most skin since i've been on this trip, seeing as how this is some of the sharpest sandstone i've climbed on.
i feel like i'm getting old though. hurting fingers, getting bruised/achy knees (my knee popped on a back-step on my ascent of plush). nothing major, but it is sore today. i think i'll probably have to be that guy that starts only doing easy sport, because that's all my body will be able to handle after this road trip.
so all in all, i think i'm getting back into the swing of things. hopefully i'll be crushing full-on at my limit soon (maybe tomorrow when i go and check out yet another area in the front range).
finally... so happy to be "out there" again. aside from still having a slight 'trigger finger', my knuckle seems to be holding up under the pressures of rockclimbing. the plan is day-on, day-off, for awhile at least; to ensure continual recovery.i got to climb friday for the 1st time in over 2 weeks. it felt so good. went to the flatirons with nick, dan, joe, jeremy, and a few others from boulder. did lots of easy warm-ups before stepping it up into the intermediate range. got shut-down on a 5 vert crimp/balance thingy. then flashed a 4/5 roof that was super fun.
then i was actually pretty surprised that i got close on the area classic turning point (8). it didn't matter that i fell on the last couple moves, b/c i was so happy to be climbing anything. after that went and did all the warm-ups again to cool down; and finished the day out on a couple low-balls we missed in the morning.
here's some more pics from the pine needle forest:
pictured left is turning point. sorry you can't see the slopers and crimps on the sunny side of the face.
here's ander doing what he does best: messing w/ people, especially while they're climbing! and sometimes he climbs (but only indoors for right now). ________________________________________________________
also got out on sunday to another area in the flatirons called the terrain boulders. quite a hike this one: 45 minutes uphill, but worth it. did quite a few moderates, including a flash of a highball/solo (5). it was a little scary since i was the 1st to go up, not knowing where to go because there was no chalk; but sacked up and finished it (only because i didn't want to jump off from 15 feet, half-way up. it was more heady than hard).saw an old friend, jen sauer, who lives in denver now. once again a fun day with a good crew in a new area.
finished off the day flashing parasol 5 and making quick work of plush 7 and kenny g's meat whistle 8. in addition, i lost the most skin since i've been on this trip, seeing as how this is some of the sharpest sandstone i've climbed on.
i feel like i'm getting old though. hurting fingers, getting bruised/achy knees (my knee popped on a back-step on my ascent of plush). nothing major, but it is sore today. i think i'll probably have to be that guy that starts only doing easy sport, because that's all my body will be able to handle after this road trip.
so all in all, i think i'm getting back into the swing of things. hopefully i'll be crushing full-on at my limit soon (maybe tomorrow when i go and check out yet another area in the front range).
Thursday, March 5, 2009
WHISKEY WEDNESDAYS
[i'm so hood by dj khaled]
went out last nite with "the boulder crew." at the sun downer you get a shot of whiskey and a mug of PBR for 3 bucks (it's a good deal). i had 2 or 3 or them before we left at 1 to go to some club, round midnight. it was good times. met some new folks: matt, emily, angie, tower, adam, alex; and saw some friends i'd met at hueco last month: ander, quinn, naomi, dan... we played pool, drank, and laughed -and almost got kicked out for spilling (and throwing) water all over the middle of the bar; the bouncer had to hold it down, but he was cool. once again, good times.
after everything closed at 2 we all piled into matt's van (7 or 8 of us) and proceeded to cookie's house, where we had a dance party in the parking lot until the cops showed up. apparently, they know how to party in boulder. on a wednesday no less. got to bed at 4 this morning, in my van, somewhere on the west side. again i say, good times.
this is how i recover from not climbing.
tonite, it's on to avery brewing company for a brew tasting of sorts. then back to the west side for hermit crab racing! i imagine it only gets better from here.
in other news: going out to explore the flatirons soon; see what future majesty it holds for me when i rockclimb again...
went out last nite with "the boulder crew." at the sun downer you get a shot of whiskey and a mug of PBR for 3 bucks (it's a good deal). i had 2 or 3 or them before we left at 1 to go to some club, round midnight. it was good times. met some new folks: matt, emily, angie, tower, adam, alex; and saw some friends i'd met at hueco last month: ander, quinn, naomi, dan... we played pool, drank, and laughed -and almost got kicked out for spilling (and throwing) water all over the middle of the bar; the bouncer had to hold it down, but he was cool. once again, good times.
after everything closed at 2 we all piled into matt's van (7 or 8 of us) and proceeded to cookie's house, where we had a dance party in the parking lot until the cops showed up. apparently, they know how to party in boulder. on a wednesday no less. got to bed at 4 this morning, in my van, somewhere on the west side. again i say, good times.
this is how i recover from not climbing.
tonite, it's on to avery brewing company for a brew tasting of sorts. then back to the west side for hermit crab racing! i imagine it only gets better from here.
in other news: going out to explore the flatirons soon; see what future majesty it holds for me when i rockclimb again...
Monday, March 2, 2009
WHAT KIND OF BEES MAKE HONEY?
boobies!
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
[wicked and weird by buck 65]
after much thought, and talking with friends, i've decided to postpone my trip to bishop (it's torture to be around great boulders and not be able to climb) and continue my journeys to colorado, this afternoon. i have someone to share the gas money with, which is good (a new friend: dan mirski).
i feel like i need another couple of weeks off my finger = no climbing:( . so i'm gonna stay with some friends, find a job for a little while, and see how it goes. i'll keep strong in the body while i can't climb: push-ups, running, ab-lab, and if possible just work 2-finger pockets on both hands. did a little session yesterday; it's good to know i can still do a 1-arm pull-up on each arm, at least, along with front-levers. i'll just have to build the finger strength back up when i finally get to climb again -as well as getting the climbing skin back.
and... i'll keep strong in my mind by catching up on all the movies/tv shows i've missed in the past 3 months.
you guys will have to keep me abreast with all your sick sends (even if it's just in the gym). time for you to pick up the slack and motivate me for when i finally get out again.
remembering, it could always be worse...
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
[wicked and weird by buck 65]
after much thought, and talking with friends, i've decided to postpone my trip to bishop (it's torture to be around great boulders and not be able to climb) and continue my journeys to colorado, this afternoon. i have someone to share the gas money with, which is good (a new friend: dan mirski).
i feel like i need another couple of weeks off my finger = no climbing:( . so i'm gonna stay with some friends, find a job for a little while, and see how it goes. i'll keep strong in the body while i can't climb: push-ups, running, ab-lab, and if possible just work 2-finger pockets on both hands. did a little session yesterday; it's good to know i can still do a 1-arm pull-up on each arm, at least, along with front-levers. i'll just have to build the finger strength back up when i finally get to climb again -as well as getting the climbing skin back.
and... i'll keep strong in my mind by catching up on all the movies/tv shows i've missed in the past 3 months.
you guys will have to keep me abreast with all your sick sends (even if it's just in the gym). time for you to pick up the slack and motivate me for when i finally get out again.
remembering, it could always be worse...
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