Friday, April 10, 2009
Wednesday, April 8, 2009
BOULDERING BOULDER PICTURE POST: COUNTDOWN TO THE END BEGINS
[introduction by panic at the disco]
niles & jenna atop flagstaff mountain
sussing it out
almost there (first overhang)
it looks like i stuck it, right?
(not like niles did, 3rd GO)
eldorado canyon trail
eldo
me, jamie, eric, jenna, niles
i am a champion!
niles & jenna atop flagstaff mountain
sussing it out
almost there (first overhang)
it looks like i stuck it, right?
(not like niles did, 3rd GO)
eldorado canyon trail
eldo
me, jamie, eric, jenna, niles
i am a champion!
Monday, April 6, 2009
WHEN IT SNOWS IT POURS (1/2)
[insert favorite song here]
in retrospect i feel like i left bishop too early (definintely could have used 2 or 3 more weeks there); not completely in my (present) control as my past self made plans to be here in boulder, co this week (6-12) as i (decided to go to joes for a week and) have previously mentioned; which is about the only thing i am super-psyched about in the here-and-now (but that's the next post-thought, 2/2).
but... i'm glad i spent the time to check out joes valley. this is definitely a place to get back to:
i arrived in joes valley on monday around noon and found brian, eric & jamie. i was feeling bummed about my newly busted finger and decided not to climb for yet another day (making 5 days off since the pulley tear). we checked out the new joes area, including
THE RIVERSIDE BOULDERS,
WORST CASE SCENARIO,
TRENT'S MOM, and THE ANTI-FUTURE PLAN before heading back to
camp
for dinner and a movie.
after seeing the rock and doing some approach-shoe warmup climbs i decided to tape the hell out of my finger and go for it the next day. and i'm glad i did.
we ended up going to AREA 51 (on tuesday) and doing some fun stuff (some easy and moderate stuff -only thing i know the name of was pocket rocket), and then ended up deciding that we were all (having each been on a roadtrip for anywhere from 4 to 6 months)
not motivated anymore & needing to do something other than rockclimbings for a little while.
the highlight of the day was getting on RESIDENT EVIL and doing all the moves except for the top-out.
the next morning (wednesday) jaime and eric decided after a nite full of snow, that it was time to move on. brian stuck around long enough to hike around a little looking for some problems on the right fork. by the afternoon it was still snowing, and cold. brian left that afternoon and i, not wanting to go to denver yet, decided to stay the nite and see how thursday faired.
the next day was warm again and the sun was peering out behind only partly cloudy skies. i went and tried MAXIPAD, which ended up being harder than i thought.
after getting shut down i made the short drive to new joes and area 51, to get back on RESIDENT EVIL. i couldn't do the first move that day, but was able to do the (i guess) stand start (someone told me they call it an 8). i was happy about the 2 day progress and wished i had maybe one more day to do the problem proper... maybe next time.
so friday i left around 10am and made the 7ish hour drive to denver (hoping to go to the denver art museum the next day), arriving just in time for rush-hour. then met up with a couple friends and cooked dinner and watched a movie. we all went to bed waiting for what was supposed to be a snow storm -only ended up being a dusting.
saturday made it to the DAM (denver art museum) for "free day" (1st saturday of the month) and walked more than i'd walked in a long time. my hips hurt and after having not slept too well on a too-short couch i was hungry and ready for a nap.
the no-storm was a relief for me seeing as how my end-stop was to hang out with some friends from back east for the week in where i finally made it to after the next post...
in retrospect i feel like i left bishop too early (definintely could have used 2 or 3 more weeks there); not completely in my (present) control as my past self made plans to be here in boulder, co this week (6-12) as i (decided to go to joes for a week and) have previously mentioned; which is about the only thing i am super-psyched about in the here-and-now (but that's the next post-thought, 2/2).
but... i'm glad i spent the time to check out joes valley. this is definitely a place to get back to:
i arrived in joes valley on monday around noon and found brian, eric & jamie. i was feeling bummed about my newly busted finger and decided not to climb for yet another day (making 5 days off since the pulley tear). we checked out the new joes area, including
THE RIVERSIDE BOULDERS,
WORST CASE SCENARIO,
TRENT'S MOM, and THE ANTI-FUTURE PLAN before heading back to
camp
for dinner and a movie.
after seeing the rock and doing some approach-shoe warmup climbs i decided to tape the hell out of my finger and go for it the next day. and i'm glad i did.
we ended up going to AREA 51 (on tuesday) and doing some fun stuff (some easy and moderate stuff -only thing i know the name of was pocket rocket), and then ended up deciding that we were all (having each been on a roadtrip for anywhere from 4 to 6 months)
not motivated anymore & needing to do something other than rockclimbings for a little while.
the highlight of the day was getting on RESIDENT EVIL and doing all the moves except for the top-out.the next morning (wednesday) jaime and eric decided after a nite full of snow, that it was time to move on. brian stuck around long enough to hike around a little looking for some problems on the right fork. by the afternoon it was still snowing, and cold. brian left that afternoon and i, not wanting to go to denver yet, decided to stay the nite and see how thursday faired.
the next day was warm again and the sun was peering out behind only partly cloudy skies. i went and tried MAXIPAD, which ended up being harder than i thought.
after getting shut down i made the short drive to new joes and area 51, to get back on RESIDENT EVIL. i couldn't do the first move that day, but was able to do the (i guess) stand start (someone told me they call it an 8). i was happy about the 2 day progress and wished i had maybe one more day to do the problem proper... maybe next time.so friday i left around 10am and made the 7ish hour drive to denver (hoping to go to the denver art museum the next day), arriving just in time for rush-hour. then met up with a couple friends and cooked dinner and watched a movie. we all went to bed waiting for what was supposed to be a snow storm -only ended up being a dusting.
saturday made it to the DAM (denver art museum) for "free day" (1st saturday of the month) and walked more than i'd walked in a long time. my hips hurt and after having not slept too well on a too-short couch i was hungry and ready for a nap.
the no-storm was a relief for me seeing as how my end-stop was to hang out with some friends from back east for the week in where i finally made it to after the next post...
MR MIAGI AND A BROKEDOWN MELODY (2/2)
[tom traubert's blues by tom waits]
so apparently if you run over something in the road it has a chance to flatten both tires on the right side of your vehicle. luckily, it only flattened one of mine, and only made an impact bulge in the other. and then to add some icing to the proverbial cake, my spare tire apparatus under the backside of the van decided it was time to break. so at 6 pm on friday nite i would have been found laying under my van trying to figure out how to either 1) get the apparatus working or 2) get the spare tire off any way i could figure out.
the first hour was filled with wiggling, pulling, pushing, cursing, praying, and walking 2 blocks to the (as i was soon to find out, closed) bridgestone tires store. on the 2 block walk back from a shot-down dream i happened upon AUTO PARTS & SERVICE, hopefully looking into the store-front window for a sign of life. what i found was more so a sign of life than i expected.
as i knocked on the window and saw an asian gentelman not looking up, shaking his head "no". i noticed the refrigerator, the counter top, table & chairs, and what appeared to be a little family seemingly making dinner. so i walk down to the locked front door and try knocking again. as i wait the door cracks open... and that's when mr. miagi peeked his head out and asked if he could help me.
the next hour was spent trying to cut with wire cutters (not bolt cutters that i asked for but couldn't receive) the metal cord that held my spare tire dangling in a neverland of help, not low enough to get off -only inches from being able to allow me to drive out of town, as mr. miagi complained about how cold it was. after convincing me to drive with the flat back to his shop by offering the spare that he had on an identical chrysler t&c lxi; cranking down what should have been the spare only turned out to be thin air.
"whoops. i guess there no spare. sorry."
eventually we worked the tire low enough to get an air-powered tiny hand-held circular saw of sorts between the tire and the bottom of the van to cut the cord and free my spare.
not accepting any money, mr. miagi welcomed my thank you's and sent me on my way. 2 hours behind (not really much of) a schedule, i finally left denver and arrived in boulder in record time to meet ander and brain for a homemade alaskan moose meat and mashed potatoes dinner. and finished up the evening meeting the rest of the nite's crew over at robin's apartment for drinks and shots before going down to pearl street for more drinks and a long, much needed nite of dancing and letting loose.
so i'm sitting here in Big O' Tires in boulder, co waiting on what's grown from 2 new tires into a new air cooler compressor kit or something, new rear brakes and rotors, serpentine belt(& belts), and what-do-you-know, they'll throw in a new air filter for free, along with whatever else they can apparently think of that i undoubtedly feel like i need to insure i get back to wherever safely!
after all of this i totally forgot about having to think over whether or not to get a warranty on what would have been 2 seemingly inexpensive little tires. if i were still thinking about this decision my thought would be that lightening doesn't strike twice in the same place. i would say that at least that's what i've heard, but more importantly, that's what i believe.
so apparently this time "something you run over in the road" and being able to leave with "peace of mind" only costs upwards of 1000 dollars. kind of like the south park episode where kyle and cartman find out with magic johnson that the cure for AIDS is a vaccine of cash injected directly into the blood stream.
at least my breaks didn't lock up after having my air compressor (that runs everything with the engine) go out, after my serpentine belt breaks and having another flat tire all the while, and get stranded somewhere in the middle of the desert on my way to who-knows-what's-next... which as i check my roadtrip funds, is enough to drive back east to kentucky and hopefully sell my car:
the shark
so apparently if you run over something in the road it has a chance to flatten both tires on the right side of your vehicle. luckily, it only flattened one of mine, and only made an impact bulge in the other. and then to add some icing to the proverbial cake, my spare tire apparatus under the backside of the van decided it was time to break. so at 6 pm on friday nite i would have been found laying under my van trying to figure out how to either 1) get the apparatus working or 2) get the spare tire off any way i could figure out.
the first hour was filled with wiggling, pulling, pushing, cursing, praying, and walking 2 blocks to the (as i was soon to find out, closed) bridgestone tires store. on the 2 block walk back from a shot-down dream i happened upon AUTO PARTS & SERVICE, hopefully looking into the store-front window for a sign of life. what i found was more so a sign of life than i expected.
as i knocked on the window and saw an asian gentelman not looking up, shaking his head "no". i noticed the refrigerator, the counter top, table & chairs, and what appeared to be a little family seemingly making dinner. so i walk down to the locked front door and try knocking again. as i wait the door cracks open... and that's when mr. miagi peeked his head out and asked if he could help me.
the next hour was spent trying to cut with wire cutters (not bolt cutters that i asked for but couldn't receive) the metal cord that held my spare tire dangling in a neverland of help, not low enough to get off -only inches from being able to allow me to drive out of town, as mr. miagi complained about how cold it was. after convincing me to drive with the flat back to his shop by offering the spare that he had on an identical chrysler t&c lxi; cranking down what should have been the spare only turned out to be thin air.
"whoops. i guess there no spare. sorry."
eventually we worked the tire low enough to get an air-powered tiny hand-held circular saw of sorts between the tire and the bottom of the van to cut the cord and free my spare.
not accepting any money, mr. miagi welcomed my thank you's and sent me on my way. 2 hours behind (not really much of) a schedule, i finally left denver and arrived in boulder in record time to meet ander and brain for a homemade alaskan moose meat and mashed potatoes dinner. and finished up the evening meeting the rest of the nite's crew over at robin's apartment for drinks and shots before going down to pearl street for more drinks and a long, much needed nite of dancing and letting loose.
so i'm sitting here in Big O' Tires in boulder, co waiting on what's grown from 2 new tires into a new air cooler compressor kit or something, new rear brakes and rotors, serpentine belt(& belts), and what-do-you-know, they'll throw in a new air filter for free, along with whatever else they can apparently think of that i undoubtedly feel like i need to insure i get back to wherever safely!
after all of this i totally forgot about having to think over whether or not to get a warranty on what would have been 2 seemingly inexpensive little tires. if i were still thinking about this decision my thought would be that lightening doesn't strike twice in the same place. i would say that at least that's what i've heard, but more importantly, that's what i believe.
so apparently this time "something you run over in the road" and being able to leave with "peace of mind" only costs upwards of 1000 dollars. kind of like the south park episode where kyle and cartman find out with magic johnson that the cure for AIDS is a vaccine of cash injected directly into the blood stream.
at least my breaks didn't lock up after having my air compressor (that runs everything with the engine) go out, after my serpentine belt breaks and having another flat tire all the while, and get stranded somewhere in the middle of the desert on my way to who-knows-what's-next... which as i check my roadtrip funds, is enough to drive back east to kentucky and hopefully sell my car:
the shark
Saturday, April 4, 2009
LUCKY DENVER MINT
i've been in joe's valley all week. which means no communication with the outside world- or the cloud-world of the internets, for that matter.
it was beautiful: whether it was snowing and 30s day 2 and 4, or if it was sunny and 60 days 1 and 3.
it seems a lot had happened during those few days: 22 unread emails, lots of texts and a few voicemails, and some psycho-break-down from a "hard" climber and "professional" developer on my friend from the garage.
i am going to "free day" at the denver museum of art today and will make my way up to boulder tonite.
then i will recap what you've missed from my side of the divide by monday.
and then welcome niles and jenna to colorado for the week; can't wait.
with love
it was beautiful: whether it was snowing and 30s day 2 and 4, or if it was sunny and 60 days 1 and 3.
it seems a lot had happened during those few days: 22 unread emails, lots of texts and a few voicemails, and some psycho-break-down from a "hard" climber and "professional" developer on my friend from the garage.
i am going to "free day" at the denver museum of art today and will make my way up to boulder tonite.
then i will recap what you've missed from my side of the divide by monday.
and then welcome niles and jenna to colorado for the week; can't wait.
with love
Sunday, March 29, 2009
INTO A BREATH OF SEEMINGLY UNENDING CITY LIGHTS AND A MORNING OF THE SAME OF SNOW
[lost coastlines by okkerville river]
i wake this morning in a virtually vacant mall parking lot to violent winds, attacking everything in sight; except for those of us nestled in the warmth of shelter. as i make my way toward breakfast and the morning news i am greeted by the accompanying (what will end up being inches and inches of) snow that salt lake city has to offer me, on this our first day together (some impression, right?).
i'm on to the next chapter in my roadtrip: joe's valley, utah. situated a couple hours south of this thriving metropolis. i pray the week down there brings better weather, better temps, and and all-around improving enjoyment of travel and rockclimbings (seeing as how i tore an A4 pulley last thursday on a problem hardly worth attempting, and hoping 4-5 days off will suffice for enough recovery to allow me to sample the sandstone goodness i will soon lay my eyes upon).
in other news, i finished the road by cormac mccarthy: simply put, a good book. SPOILERISH: the end was rather sad (as one could expect from an apocalyptic tale), but somehow the last paragraph made it all okay. how could something so simple and unassuming and seemingly out of left field do that (though so apropos)? kinda weird i thought, but it goes to show a powerful author full of an understanding i wish to create myself.
peace be your journey
i wake this morning in a virtually vacant mall parking lot to violent winds, attacking everything in sight; except for those of us nestled in the warmth of shelter. as i make my way toward breakfast and the morning news i am greeted by the accompanying (what will end up being inches and inches of) snow that salt lake city has to offer me, on this our first day together (some impression, right?).
i'm on to the next chapter in my roadtrip: joe's valley, utah. situated a couple hours south of this thriving metropolis. i pray the week down there brings better weather, better temps, and and all-around improving enjoyment of travel and rockclimbings (seeing as how i tore an A4 pulley last thursday on a problem hardly worth attempting, and hoping 4-5 days off will suffice for enough recovery to allow me to sample the sandstone goodness i will soon lay my eyes upon).
in other news, i finished the road by cormac mccarthy: simply put, a good book. SPOILERISH: the end was rather sad (as one could expect from an apocalyptic tale), but somehow the last paragraph made it all okay. how could something so simple and unassuming and seemingly out of left field do that (though so apropos)? kinda weird i thought, but it goes to show a powerful author full of an understanding i wish to create myself.
peace be your journey
Saturday, March 28, 2009
A LOOK BACK
[top drawer by man man]
up to rock creek
chris at the campground boulder (rock creek)
camping at the 'milks
poker nite at steve's 'palace'
at the last fire
the road and what i left behind saturday morning
up to rock creek
chris at the campground boulder (rock creek)
camping at the 'milks
poker nite at steve's 'palace'
at the last fire
the road and what i left behind saturday morning
Friday, March 27, 2009
Wednesday, March 25, 2009
GLEANING OBSERVATIONS OF TRAVEL: AND INCONSEQUENTIAL INFORMATION
[i see a darkness by bonnie prince billy]
it's interesting all the familiar faces the road brings. time and time again personalities i've met before with a similar face or a slightly reminiscent voice. how we all are just about the same -even i'm the new familiarity of one situated in a separate time and place...
patricks are gregs, gregs are kevins, and kevins are aarons.
reminding us all of all of us; returning again to reach out and being reached in return. happiness is found in other people, with other people, and with it a quality to be shared again, if (even) for the first time.
__________________________________________________________________
so bishop...
the buttermilks. sharp.
the happys. fun.
the bouldering's different here, as it is in most areas (in relation to another type of rock/area). i'll probably get used to it by time i leave, which is by the end of this weekend. next stop joe's in utah, with my friend brian from boston and meet up with rachel who'll be in salt lake.
i've managed a bunch of 6s since day one, but that's the limit as of right now. i've tried a couple 8s, but gotten closer on more 9s; there's a few that i think i could manage with a another day or 2 of work (toxic avenger, the moonraker).
still, such a beautiful place.
the sierras, moonlit hot springs, blue skies, and lots of beautiful and varying rock. and a good crew of friends (mostly migrated from hueco, each with a different stop in between). adrian, praire, gary the scot, brian, rachel, james and dave the kiwis, dave, chris, helen... and lots and lots of wine.
newly developed boulder miles down the road
rachel (aka giggles) rockin' up on another beautiful, newly developed line on the fish loop boulder
it's interesting all the familiar faces the road brings. time and time again personalities i've met before with a similar face or a slightly reminiscent voice. how we all are just about the same -even i'm the new familiarity of one situated in a separate time and place...
patricks are gregs, gregs are kevins, and kevins are aarons.
reminding us all of all of us; returning again to reach out and being reached in return. happiness is found in other people, with other people, and with it a quality to be shared again, if (even) for the first time.
__________________________________________________________________
so bishop...
the buttermilks. sharp.
the happys. fun.
the bouldering's different here, as it is in most areas (in relation to another type of rock/area). i'll probably get used to it by time i leave, which is by the end of this weekend. next stop joe's in utah, with my friend brian from boston and meet up with rachel who'll be in salt lake.
i've managed a bunch of 6s since day one, but that's the limit as of right now. i've tried a couple 8s, but gotten closer on more 9s; there's a few that i think i could manage with a another day or 2 of work (toxic avenger, the moonraker).
still, such a beautiful place.
the sierras, moonlit hot springs, blue skies, and lots of beautiful and varying rock. and a good crew of friends (mostly migrated from hueco, each with a different stop in between). adrian, praire, gary the scot, brian, rachel, james and dave the kiwis, dave, chris, helen... and lots and lots of wine.
newly developed boulder miles down the road
rachel (aka giggles) rockin' up on another beautiful, newly developed line on the fish loop boulder
Sunday, March 22, 2009
A BUTTERMILKS PICTURE POST
[wagon wheel by o.c.m.s.]
seven spanish angels
ironman traverse
birthday direct
the turtle-er gets turtle-ed
seven spanish angels
ironman traverse
birthday direct
the turtle-er gets turtle-ed
Wednesday, March 18, 2009
GOIN' BACK TO CALI, TO CALI, TO CALI
[damn it feels good to be a gangsta by geto boys]
actually this is the first time i've been to cali. i had a job offer in mammoth a couple years back for the start of some seasonal work, but for various reasons decided to turn it down.
but here i am... this time a little further south than i would have been: bishop. the rock here is sharp, but mostly pretty positive (which i like). had a good first tour yesterday of the buttermilks, hitting up some of the classics, i guess. most everything here is pretty high. i was only a little freaked out on one yesterday, which was the tallest thing i did. it wasn't even that hard, just really crimpy and foot-trustworthy. the feet didn't feel trustworthy though; they felt polished, if not just slick. but all in all, i held it together and finished it out.
it's good to challenge the head from time to time. my body knows its limits, but my head does not; not as of late anyway. i've had some pretty trying times up high this year, and getting older (i'm far from being an invincible teen), the risks weigh heavier than personal glory i can imagine. battles are fought and war is waged, and currently no battle will be fought without absolute belief in future victory.
i don't have access to my photos right now (no wireless today -just library computer access), but as soon as i get them i'll be sure to post the beauty that is the present chapter in my roadtrip life.
love and nutella for all
actually this is the first time i've been to cali. i had a job offer in mammoth a couple years back for the start of some seasonal work, but for various reasons decided to turn it down. but here i am... this time a little further south than i would have been: bishop. the rock here is sharp, but mostly pretty positive (which i like). had a good first tour yesterday of the buttermilks, hitting up some of the classics, i guess. most everything here is pretty high. i was only a little freaked out on one yesterday, which was the tallest thing i did. it wasn't even that hard, just really crimpy and foot-trustworthy. the feet didn't feel trustworthy though; they felt polished, if not just slick. but all in all, i held it together and finished it out.
it's good to challenge the head from time to time. my body knows its limits, but my head does not; not as of late anyway. i've had some pretty trying times up high this year, and getting older (i'm far from being an invincible teen), the risks weigh heavier than personal glory i can imagine. battles are fought and war is waged, and currently no battle will be fought without absolute belief in future victory.
i don't have access to my photos right now (no wireless today -just library computer access), but as soon as i get them i'll be sure to post the beauty that is the present chapter in my roadtrip life.
love and nutella for all
Monday, March 16, 2009
OAK FLATS AND PRIEST DRAW
[el cuarto de tula by buena vista social club]
today i leave for bishop, ca. 13 hours down from denver to phoenix, and now i have 9 more hours of road ahead of me before i get to settle down for a couple weeks in cali. i've never been to bishop yet so i'm pretty excited to experience all it has to offer on a first trip.
but before that, a picture recap from my weekend in phoenix.
QUEEN CREEK/ OAK FLATS
my gracious hosts for the weekend: beatrice and gustavo
a view from atop a topout
finishing off a nice warm-up
FLAGSTAFF/ PRIEST DRAW
part of the crew for the day (me, pete, gustavo)
gustavo finishing up figuring out the moves on a girl from emponima(sp?)
sticking the move on anorexic
today i leave for bishop, ca. 13 hours down from denver to phoenix, and now i have 9 more hours of road ahead of me before i get to settle down for a couple weeks in cali. i've never been to bishop yet so i'm pretty excited to experience all it has to offer on a first trip.
but before that, a picture recap from my weekend in phoenix.
QUEEN CREEK/ OAK FLATS
my gracious hosts for the weekend: beatrice and gustavo 
a view from atop a topout
finishing off a nice warm-up
FLAGSTAFF/ PRIEST DRAW
part of the crew for the day (me, pete, gustavo)
gustavo finishing up figuring out the moves on a girl from emponima(sp?)
sticking the move on anorexic
Saturday, March 14, 2009
THE COWBOY LOUNGE
[sleepyhead by passion pit]
so my last nite in denver, which was my first nite-out in denver, was quite a nite (i was only in denver for 2 days visiting a friend before coming down to phoenix for the weekend). i didn't think i could out-do my first nite-out in boulder, but by getting kicked out of the bar within a couple hours, it sounds like i may have done just that.
all the "bouncers" had boots, jeans, belt buckles, and cowboy hats, of course. and much to our chagrin there was a country song filling up the streets as we made our way closer, and line-dancing spilling out from the inside. but since ander and i were going to meet his friend rachel, we had to go in and check it out. the music ended being decent and the dance floor itself wasn't too bad either. we had a beer and then a round of shots (we previously had a couple beers before going down to market street to start the evening). after hitting the dance floor we sat down at our booth to relax and catch our breathe for a minute.
it was lady's nite, meaning all the ladies drank for free. and all the lady's got their drinks in plastic cups.
so seeing as how the bar-b!tch kept walking by and looking at our table of almost empty cups, i decided to finish off the back-wash that was settling in the one in front of me (honestly not even thinking about it)... and apparently the little cowboy that asked me if he could "have a word" with me didn't like it.
"i'm going to have to ask you to leave."
"are you kidding me," i said.
"no. the beer is free for ladies. and i saw you finish off her beer; it's like you're stealing from us."
"the foam that i drank?" you're kidding; this is ridiculous."
"no, you understand."
"yeah, sure, i understand," i said... "i understand you all are a bunch of idiots."
...and that's when we left (and when i got escorted out), and made our way around the corner to a nice little jazz bar until everything was closing up. it was low-key and a good change of pace from the aforementioned chach hang-out.
...who woulda thunk it...
so my last nite in denver, which was my first nite-out in denver, was quite a nite (i was only in denver for 2 days visiting a friend before coming down to phoenix for the weekend). i didn't think i could out-do my first nite-out in boulder, but by getting kicked out of the bar within a couple hours, it sounds like i may have done just that.all the "bouncers" had boots, jeans, belt buckles, and cowboy hats, of course. and much to our chagrin there was a country song filling up the streets as we made our way closer, and line-dancing spilling out from the inside. but since ander and i were going to meet his friend rachel, we had to go in and check it out. the music ended being decent and the dance floor itself wasn't too bad either. we had a beer and then a round of shots (we previously had a couple beers before going down to market street to start the evening). after hitting the dance floor we sat down at our booth to relax and catch our breathe for a minute.
it was lady's nite, meaning all the ladies drank for free. and all the lady's got their drinks in plastic cups.
so seeing as how the bar-b!tch kept walking by and looking at our table of almost empty cups, i decided to finish off the back-wash that was settling in the one in front of me (honestly not even thinking about it)... and apparently the little cowboy that asked me if he could "have a word" with me didn't like it.
"i'm going to have to ask you to leave."
"are you kidding me," i said.
"no. the beer is free for ladies. and i saw you finish off her beer; it's like you're stealing from us."
"the foam that i drank?" you're kidding; this is ridiculous."
"no, you understand."
"yeah, sure, i understand," i said... "i understand you all are a bunch of idiots."
...and that's when we left (and when i got escorted out), and made our way around the corner to a nice little jazz bar until everything was closing up. it was low-key and a good change of pace from the aforementioned chach hang-out.
...who woulda thunk it...
Thursday, March 12, 2009
NILESMAN AND MISS NILESMAN
[mistaken for strangers by the national]
it won't be long until my friend and his girlfriend arrive in boulder for a stay (april 6-12). niles is my old climbing partner and housemate from the red. his girlfriend jenna's sister lives in boulder and they'll be 'killing 2 birds with one stone' on a double-duty vacation.
it's been at least 3 months since i've seen him and am excited to get to climb again and experience some more of colorado with him (his first time as well).
the road is a great place for new faces, but even more heartwarming to experience a new place with old friends. i look forward to their arrival and wish them a bon voyage.
it won't be long until my friend and his girlfriend arrive in boulder for a stay (april 6-12). niles is my old climbing partner and housemate from the red. his girlfriend jenna's sister lives in boulder and they'll be 'killing 2 birds with one stone' on a double-duty vacation.it's been at least 3 months since i've seen him and am excited to get to climb again and experience some more of colorado with him (his first time as well).
the road is a great place for new faces, but even more heartwarming to experience a new place with old friends. i look forward to their arrival and wish them a bon voyage.
Monday, March 9, 2009
BOULDERING ON THE BOULDERS IN BOULDER
[so what by miles davis]
finally... so happy to be "out there" again. aside from still having a slight 'trigger finger', my knuckle seems to be holding up under the pressures of rockclimbing. the plan is day-on, day-off, for awhile at least; to ensure continual recovery.
i got to climb friday for the 1st time in over 2 weeks. it felt so good. went to the flatirons with nick, dan, joe, jeremy, and a few others from boulder. did lots of easy warm-ups before stepping it up into the intermediate range. got shut-down on a 5 vert crimp/balance thingy. then flashed a 4/5 roof that was super fun.
then i was actually pretty surprised that i got close on the area classic turning point (8). it didn't matter that i fell on the last couple moves, b/c i was so happy to be climbing anything. after that went and did all the warm-ups again to cool down; and finished the day out on a couple low-balls we missed in the morning.
here's some more pics from the pine needle forest:
pictured left is turning point. sorry you can't see the slopers and crimps on the sunny side of the face.
here's ander doing what he does best: messing w/ people, especially while they're climbing! and sometimes he climbs (but only indoors for right now).
________________________________________________________
also got out on sunday to another area in the flatirons called the terrain boulders. quite a hike this one: 45 minutes uphill, but worth it. did quite a few moderates, including a flash of a highball/solo (5). it was a little scary since i was the 1st to go up, not knowing where to go because there was no chalk; but sacked up and finished it (only because i didn't want to jump off from 15 feet, half-way up. it was more heady than hard).
saw an old friend, jen sauer, who lives in denver now. once again a fun day with a good crew in a new area.
finished off the day flashing parasol 5 and making quick work of plush 7 and kenny g's meat whistle 8. in addition, i lost the most skin since i've been on this trip, seeing as how this is some of the sharpest sandstone i've climbed on.
i feel like i'm getting old though. hurting fingers, getting bruised/achy knees (my knee popped on a back-step on my ascent of plush). nothing major, but it is sore today. i think i'll probably have to be that guy that starts only doing easy sport, because that's all my body will be able to handle after this road trip.
so all in all, i think i'm getting back into the swing of things. hopefully i'll be crushing full-on at my limit soon (maybe tomorrow when i go and check out yet another area in the front range).
finally... so happy to be "out there" again. aside from still having a slight 'trigger finger', my knuckle seems to be holding up under the pressures of rockclimbing. the plan is day-on, day-off, for awhile at least; to ensure continual recovery.i got to climb friday for the 1st time in over 2 weeks. it felt so good. went to the flatirons with nick, dan, joe, jeremy, and a few others from boulder. did lots of easy warm-ups before stepping it up into the intermediate range. got shut-down on a 5 vert crimp/balance thingy. then flashed a 4/5 roof that was super fun.
then i was actually pretty surprised that i got close on the area classic turning point (8). it didn't matter that i fell on the last couple moves, b/c i was so happy to be climbing anything. after that went and did all the warm-ups again to cool down; and finished the day out on a couple low-balls we missed in the morning.
here's some more pics from the pine needle forest:
pictured left is turning point. sorry you can't see the slopers and crimps on the sunny side of the face.
here's ander doing what he does best: messing w/ people, especially while they're climbing! and sometimes he climbs (but only indoors for right now). ________________________________________________________
also got out on sunday to another area in the flatirons called the terrain boulders. quite a hike this one: 45 minutes uphill, but worth it. did quite a few moderates, including a flash of a highball/solo (5). it was a little scary since i was the 1st to go up, not knowing where to go because there was no chalk; but sacked up and finished it (only because i didn't want to jump off from 15 feet, half-way up. it was more heady than hard).saw an old friend, jen sauer, who lives in denver now. once again a fun day with a good crew in a new area.
finished off the day flashing parasol 5 and making quick work of plush 7 and kenny g's meat whistle 8. in addition, i lost the most skin since i've been on this trip, seeing as how this is some of the sharpest sandstone i've climbed on.
i feel like i'm getting old though. hurting fingers, getting bruised/achy knees (my knee popped on a back-step on my ascent of plush). nothing major, but it is sore today. i think i'll probably have to be that guy that starts only doing easy sport, because that's all my body will be able to handle after this road trip.
so all in all, i think i'm getting back into the swing of things. hopefully i'll be crushing full-on at my limit soon (maybe tomorrow when i go and check out yet another area in the front range).
Thursday, March 5, 2009
WHISKEY WEDNESDAYS
[i'm so hood by dj khaled]
went out last nite with "the boulder crew." at the sun downer you get a shot of whiskey and a mug of PBR for 3 bucks (it's a good deal). i had 2 or 3 or them before we left at 1 to go to some club, round midnight. it was good times. met some new folks: matt, emily, angie, tower, adam, alex; and saw some friends i'd met at hueco last month: ander, quinn, naomi, dan... we played pool, drank, and laughed -and almost got kicked out for spilling (and throwing) water all over the middle of the bar; the bouncer had to hold it down, but he was cool. once again, good times.
after everything closed at 2 we all piled into matt's van (7 or 8 of us) and proceeded to cookie's house, where we had a dance party in the parking lot until the cops showed up. apparently, they know how to party in boulder. on a wednesday no less. got to bed at 4 this morning, in my van, somewhere on the west side. again i say, good times.
this is how i recover from not climbing.
tonite, it's on to avery brewing company for a brew tasting of sorts. then back to the west side for hermit crab racing! i imagine it only gets better from here.
in other news: going out to explore the flatirons soon; see what future majesty it holds for me when i rockclimb again...
went out last nite with "the boulder crew." at the sun downer you get a shot of whiskey and a mug of PBR for 3 bucks (it's a good deal). i had 2 or 3 or them before we left at 1 to go to some club, round midnight. it was good times. met some new folks: matt, emily, angie, tower, adam, alex; and saw some friends i'd met at hueco last month: ander, quinn, naomi, dan... we played pool, drank, and laughed -and almost got kicked out for spilling (and throwing) water all over the middle of the bar; the bouncer had to hold it down, but he was cool. once again, good times.
after everything closed at 2 we all piled into matt's van (7 or 8 of us) and proceeded to cookie's house, where we had a dance party in the parking lot until the cops showed up. apparently, they know how to party in boulder. on a wednesday no less. got to bed at 4 this morning, in my van, somewhere on the west side. again i say, good times.
this is how i recover from not climbing.
tonite, it's on to avery brewing company for a brew tasting of sorts. then back to the west side for hermit crab racing! i imagine it only gets better from here.
in other news: going out to explore the flatirons soon; see what future majesty it holds for me when i rockclimb again...
Monday, March 2, 2009
WHAT KIND OF BEES MAKE HONEY?
boobies!
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
[wicked and weird by buck 65]
after much thought, and talking with friends, i've decided to postpone my trip to bishop (it's torture to be around great boulders and not be able to climb) and continue my journeys to colorado, this afternoon. i have someone to share the gas money with, which is good (a new friend: dan mirski).
i feel like i need another couple of weeks off my finger = no climbing:( . so i'm gonna stay with some friends, find a job for a little while, and see how it goes. i'll keep strong in the body while i can't climb: push-ups, running, ab-lab, and if possible just work 2-finger pockets on both hands. did a little session yesterday; it's good to know i can still do a 1-arm pull-up on each arm, at least, along with front-levers. i'll just have to build the finger strength back up when i finally get to climb again -as well as getting the climbing skin back.
and... i'll keep strong in my mind by catching up on all the movies/tv shows i've missed in the past 3 months.
you guys will have to keep me abreast with all your sick sends (even if it's just in the gym). time for you to pick up the slack and motivate me for when i finally get out again.
remembering, it could always be worse...
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
[wicked and weird by buck 65]
after much thought, and talking with friends, i've decided to postpone my trip to bishop (it's torture to be around great boulders and not be able to climb) and continue my journeys to colorado, this afternoon. i have someone to share the gas money with, which is good (a new friend: dan mirski).
i feel like i need another couple of weeks off my finger = no climbing:( . so i'm gonna stay with some friends, find a job for a little while, and see how it goes. i'll keep strong in the body while i can't climb: push-ups, running, ab-lab, and if possible just work 2-finger pockets on both hands. did a little session yesterday; it's good to know i can still do a 1-arm pull-up on each arm, at least, along with front-levers. i'll just have to build the finger strength back up when i finally get to climb again -as well as getting the climbing skin back.
and... i'll keep strong in my mind by catching up on all the movies/tv shows i've missed in the past 3 months.
you guys will have to keep me abreast with all your sick sends (even if it's just in the gym). time for you to pick up the slack and motivate me for when i finally get out again.
remembering, it could always be worse...
Saturday, February 28, 2009
CAREFUL, THIS FINGER IS LOADED
[song: black wings by tom waits]
it seems practically every other climber i know is injured this season. is it more so than normal, or just more so as i'm affected too? all i know is i figured out what ails me... (thanks to wiki for my self-educating prognosis)
TENOSYNOVITIS is the inflammation of the fluid-filled sheath (called synovium) that surrounds a tendon. symptoms of this include pain, swelling, and difficulty moving the particular joint where the inflammation occurs. when the condition causes the finger to "stick" in a flexed position, this is commonly called "trigger finger," or when a nodule forms on the tendon. affected digits may become painful to straighten once bent and may make a soft cracking sound when moved. the term "trigger finger" itself is used b/c when the finger unlocks it pops back sometimes suddenly, as if releasing the trigger of a gun.
causes are unknown, and the condition is generally seen more often in males.
possible treatments include cortisone injections (followed by varying degrees of painkillers) and an outpatient surgery to enlarge the synovium, where the hand is splinted for a week or so afterwords. fairly less symptomatic cases appear to be treated with NSAIDs and anti-imflammatory drugs.
thankfully i haven't fully developed "trigger finger." i feel like i might as well have seeing as how i can't climb anyway, and it would seem cooler to use it as a party trick or something tonite at the Rock Rodeo. i do have the nice, soft crackling sound when i try to open or close my finger though: definitely not as fun as it sounds.
i've been dosing on sodium naproxen for a few days now and will see how that works after i've reached 7 days of said treatment. if things don't seem to be any better i'm going to look into a cortisone shot, which seems a little less expensive than surgery (especially considering i don't have any health insurance now).
at any rate, i have 9 good fingers... and i may just have to give it the ol' tommy caldwell if it can't pull its own weight (literally, its own weight!).
dealing with the downtime,
ak
it seems practically every other climber i know is injured this season. is it more so than normal, or just more so as i'm affected too? all i know is i figured out what ails me... (thanks to wiki for my self-educating prognosis)
TENOSYNOVITIS is the inflammation of the fluid-filled sheath (called synovium) that surrounds a tendon. symptoms of this include pain, swelling, and difficulty moving the particular joint where the inflammation occurs. when the condition causes the finger to "stick" in a flexed position, this is commonly called "trigger finger," or when a nodule forms on the tendon. affected digits may become painful to straighten once bent and may make a soft cracking sound when moved. the term "trigger finger" itself is used b/c when the finger unlocks it pops back sometimes suddenly, as if releasing the trigger of a gun.
causes are unknown, and the condition is generally seen more often in males.
possible treatments include cortisone injections (followed by varying degrees of painkillers) and an outpatient surgery to enlarge the synovium, where the hand is splinted for a week or so afterwords. fairly less symptomatic cases appear to be treated with NSAIDs and anti-imflammatory drugs.
thankfully i haven't fully developed "trigger finger." i feel like i might as well have seeing as how i can't climb anyway, and it would seem cooler to use it as a party trick or something tonite at the Rock Rodeo. i do have the nice, soft crackling sound when i try to open or close my finger though: definitely not as fun as it sounds.
i've been dosing on sodium naproxen for a few days now and will see how that works after i've reached 7 days of said treatment. if things don't seem to be any better i'm going to look into a cortisone shot, which seems a little less expensive than surgery (especially considering i don't have any health insurance now).
at any rate, i have 9 good fingers... and i may just have to give it the ol' tommy caldwell if it can't pull its own weight (literally, its own weight!).
dealing with the downtime,
ak
Thursday, February 26, 2009
SUN'S OUT, GUNS OUT!
[song: change is hard by she & him]
i'll have to say that hueco has been a complete success for me. new grades (i'm psyched to have done a few soft 10s (you gotta break into the grade somehow, right -if not just bulking up on 9s), new climbs (super-new, hidden away gems -i may have even done an FA, at hueco!), and new friends (people who know people who i know, and now i know people who know people, you know? i know!). good times... good times. .
as my time here comes to a close though, 2 major things come to the forefront which necessitate (hopefully only) a week of rest: 80 degree weather and a knuckle the size of a quarter.
the weather is telling enough. the latter is some sort of joint inflammation due to overuse/overwork/stress; the big knuckle of my left ring finger is experiencing some increased, acute pain. the sheath that surrounds the tendon that encompasses the joint, i believe (based on multiple conversations with people who've experienced similar pain, and who have previously spoken with some sort of finger specialist), is worn down and not getting enough lubrication. if that is in fact correct, i can tape the finger, even buddy tape, and continue climbing, with no ill effects. to be sure, i'm taking time off to help speed the recovery process and to try and ensure no further damage. and of course, i'll have to limit the load i put on it.
i've been nursing the knuckle for most of my trip here, not thinking much more than it just being the usual stiffness. warming it up slow, loosening/stretching it before climbing, taking anti-imflammatories; whatever precautions i can think of -aside from, of course, complete rest. it seemed to have worked, up until the last few days; the joint pain has come to a head though and now i can't even bend it completely. so i am forced to rest (which is no problem because of this coming heat and volunteer responsibilities with the upcoming Rock Rodeo). especially if i plan to continue climbing for the remaining months leading up to this summer: hopefully heading for bishop, ca and cooler temps next monday or tuesday; and on to joe's valley in utah when it seems to hot there.
so raise a glass with me: to personal progression/victories, to friends & climbing partners, and to new climbs... and whatever else may be on your mind...
here's to this season...
cheers!
i'll have to say that hueco has been a complete success for me. new grades (i'm psyched to have done a few soft 10s (you gotta break into the grade somehow, right -if not just bulking up on 9s), new climbs (super-new, hidden away gems -i may have even done an FA, at hueco!), and new friends (people who know people who i know, and now i know people who know people, you know? i know!). good times... good times. .
as my time here comes to a close though, 2 major things come to the forefront which necessitate (hopefully only) a week of rest: 80 degree weather and a knuckle the size of a quarter.
the weather is telling enough. the latter is some sort of joint inflammation due to overuse/overwork/stress; the big knuckle of my left ring finger is experiencing some increased, acute pain. the sheath that surrounds the tendon that encompasses the joint, i believe (based on multiple conversations with people who've experienced similar pain, and who have previously spoken with some sort of finger specialist), is worn down and not getting enough lubrication. if that is in fact correct, i can tape the finger, even buddy tape, and continue climbing, with no ill effects. to be sure, i'm taking time off to help speed the recovery process and to try and ensure no further damage. and of course, i'll have to limit the load i put on it.
i've been nursing the knuckle for most of my trip here, not thinking much more than it just being the usual stiffness. warming it up slow, loosening/stretching it before climbing, taking anti-imflammatories; whatever precautions i can think of -aside from, of course, complete rest. it seemed to have worked, up until the last few days; the joint pain has come to a head though and now i can't even bend it completely. so i am forced to rest (which is no problem because of this coming heat and volunteer responsibilities with the upcoming Rock Rodeo). especially if i plan to continue climbing for the remaining months leading up to this summer: hopefully heading for bishop, ca and cooler temps next monday or tuesday; and on to joe's valley in utah when it seems to hot there.
so raise a glass with me: to personal progression/victories, to friends & climbing partners, and to new climbs... and whatever else may be on your mind...
here's to this season...
cheers!
Sunday, February 22, 2009
IT'S SOMEONE'S FIRST DAY AND SOMEONE'S LAST AT HUECO
[song: interlude & hysteria by muse]
i just dropped kyle and greg off at the airport. yesterday was their last day in the park. we warmed up in gusty winds and sought shelter in the stegasaur (8) corridor. it's a cool fin feature in a roof that leads to 2 tenuous moves on the face. it took a couple go's to figure out the sequence, then we promptly ran the train on it.
after that we met up with mike and steph as greg worked out the first half of dean's journey (10). then we went to the east side of north where kyle dispatched of 99 heroin balloons (8/9) rather quickly. it took a few more go's for me, but i ended up getting this awesome power-compression, overhanging prow.
then on to the front side where we tried a couple other things in the late afternoon. where we met dave g and chad g and somebody olson. ryan, i think managed out an ascent of el techo de los tres b's (11?). the climb used to be a 13 before a hold was chipped/broken last week. there are 2 people i was aware of that were working it, but both of them were surprised to return the day after it happend to see that it might possibly be a little easier now. it's still an awesome climb.
other than that, greg and kyle had a good day on friday as well: sending all their respective projects. kyle got black mamba (10) and greg got pfos (his first 9). they also both quickly dispatched with chris's arete (8)... among other 7s & 8s for the trip. great job to both!
my day on friday was a step into new realms. ever since i started climbing i have watched climbing videos. and ever since i've watched climbing videos i've rarely been able to climb on problems that i've even seen in person. but that's changing apparently.
we took a crew into the spur on east mountain and i was able to do purple flowers again (this time completely clean (felt good, still had to try). then we spent the bulk of the day on 2 classic, harder problems: the flame and rumble in the jungle (both i think may have been downgraded to 11). and i climbed on both. i was able to climb the flame into the crux move, (even though i haven't yet done the move, even in isolation) which is a hard left hand stab into "the ear" that's facing the "wrong" way. and now i've got rumble down to almost 2 sections. i have to do a double step-thru to link the beginning and the end. it's basically doing two 8s maybe back-to-back = power-endurance. we have another tour scheduled for tuesday. i'm resting today and probably tomorrow, so i should hopefully be able to make some progress on both. at least do "the move" on the flame, and hopefully get further into rumble from the beginning. we'll see. either way, they are both super-cool; and the vibe is always positive.
it's fun, this whole climbing full-time thing. one week left at hueco :(
stay motivated!
[fingers crossed: more pics soon]
i just dropped kyle and greg off at the airport. yesterday was their last day in the park. we warmed up in gusty winds and sought shelter in the stegasaur (8) corridor. it's a cool fin feature in a roof that leads to 2 tenuous moves on the face. it took a couple go's to figure out the sequence, then we promptly ran the train on it. after that we met up with mike and steph as greg worked out the first half of dean's journey (10). then we went to the east side of north where kyle dispatched of 99 heroin balloons (8/9) rather quickly. it took a few more go's for me, but i ended up getting this awesome power-compression, overhanging prow.
then on to the front side where we tried a couple other things in the late afternoon. where we met dave g and chad g and somebody olson. ryan, i think managed out an ascent of el techo de los tres b's (11?). the climb used to be a 13 before a hold was chipped/broken last week. there are 2 people i was aware of that were working it, but both of them were surprised to return the day after it happend to see that it might possibly be a little easier now. it's still an awesome climb.
other than that, greg and kyle had a good day on friday as well: sending all their respective projects. kyle got black mamba (10) and greg got pfos (his first 9). they also both quickly dispatched with chris's arete (8)... among other 7s & 8s for the trip. great job to both!
my day on friday was a step into new realms. ever since i started climbing i have watched climbing videos. and ever since i've watched climbing videos i've rarely been able to climb on problems that i've even seen in person. but that's changing apparently.
we took a crew into the spur on east mountain and i was able to do purple flowers again (this time completely clean (felt good, still had to try). then we spent the bulk of the day on 2 classic, harder problems: the flame and rumble in the jungle (both i think may have been downgraded to 11). and i climbed on both. i was able to climb the flame into the crux move, (even though i haven't yet done the move, even in isolation) which is a hard left hand stab into "the ear" that's facing the "wrong" way. and now i've got rumble down to almost 2 sections. i have to do a double step-thru to link the beginning and the end. it's basically doing two 8s maybe back-to-back = power-endurance. we have another tour scheduled for tuesday. i'm resting today and probably tomorrow, so i should hopefully be able to make some progress on both. at least do "the move" on the flame, and hopefully get further into rumble from the beginning. we'll see. either way, they are both super-cool; and the vibe is always positive.
it's fun, this whole climbing full-time thing. one week left at hueco :(
stay motivated!
[fingers crossed: more pics soon]
Thursday, February 19, 2009
"ANOTHER ONE BITES THE DUST"
[song: right in the head by m.ward]
CHAPTER 1
greg and kyle are down to 2 days of climbing left (after their rest day today). they've been putting a pretty good hurtin' on the rocks here at hueco. it's been fun hanging out when i've gotten a chance. eating burritos & burgers, drinking beer, watching the family guy, talking about funny movies, and getting in a little climbing of course. it'll be a shame to see them go.
CHAPTER 2
in climbing, and oft times in life, i've learned that wanting something and attaining it are one thing, but the process by which that something is attained is often different from the initial perceived means.
example:
i now have done black mamba. finally. but the sequence i used ended up being different from what i first figured out. which on one hand seems ridiculous since there are only 5 holds for the bulk of the problem; but it makes sense that you could reconfigure said holds in a couple different ways, which is what i did. i would have preferred to do it the "traditional" way, but that sequence proved to be harder for me.
in short, as my scottish friend gary says, i am properly chuffed (meaning happy, excited, et al. and in no way similar to being, as the americans say, a chuffer).
CHAPTER 3
having accomplished all goals for the trip i am set to work on a new uber-project: rumble in the jungle. i was on it tuesday and did almost all the moves. then yesterday was royally pysched to get it down to 3 sections. it's the hardest thing i've tried, and maybe the best line. i am excited to get on it again tomorrow with the crew: brian, ander, chris, and gustavo; and hopefully get it down to 2 sections. i'll try to get some footage or pics. . . it's sooo good.
be good and keep it real. . .
hugs and kisses!
CHAPTER 1
greg and kyle are down to 2 days of climbing left (after their rest day today). they've been putting a pretty good hurtin' on the rocks here at hueco. it's been fun hanging out when i've gotten a chance. eating burritos & burgers, drinking beer, watching the family guy, talking about funny movies, and getting in a little climbing of course. it'll be a shame to see them go.
CHAPTER 2
in climbing, and oft times in life, i've learned that wanting something and attaining it are one thing, but the process by which that something is attained is often different from the initial perceived means.
example:
i now have done black mamba. finally. but the sequence i used ended up being different from what i first figured out. which on one hand seems ridiculous since there are only 5 holds for the bulk of the problem; but it makes sense that you could reconfigure said holds in a couple different ways, which is what i did. i would have preferred to do it the "traditional" way, but that sequence proved to be harder for me.in short, as my scottish friend gary says, i am properly chuffed (meaning happy, excited, et al. and in no way similar to being, as the americans say, a chuffer).
CHAPTER 3
having accomplished all goals for the trip i am set to work on a new uber-project: rumble in the jungle. i was on it tuesday and did almost all the moves. then yesterday was royally pysched to get it down to 3 sections. it's the hardest thing i've tried, and maybe the best line. i am excited to get on it again tomorrow with the crew: brian, ander, chris, and gustavo; and hopefully get it down to 2 sections. i'll try to get some footage or pics. . . it's sooo good.
be good and keep it real. . .
hugs and kisses!
Thursday, February 12, 2009
BUCKABROTHERBILL
[song: somebody told me by the killers]
quick note:
first of all, i've been able to climb with 'famous' climbers here at the tanks and it's been fun. they're stronger than me, of course, but above that they are really just down to earth people (most, at least) who love rock climbing... and they also think i'm really funny.
anyway...
stuck the high sloper on black mamba (the 2nd/hard move) from the start, but my lower hand came screaming off: NO!! next day for sure.
i did manage to do fern roof completely clean 2nd go of the day. it felt great! (picture shows me before the bump move with my left hand, before the dyno to the pointy looking jug over the lip off the heel). [you can find a video on vimeo of some guy doing it close to the same way i do (it's at about the 3 minute mark in the video... with good footage of other hueco problems, too)]
super psyched!
good luck to you, dear reader, wherever you are, with whatever you're doing!
quick note:
first of all, i've been able to climb with 'famous' climbers here at the tanks and it's been fun. they're stronger than me, of course, but above that they are really just down to earth people (most, at least) who love rock climbing... and they also think i'm really funny.
anyway...
stuck the high sloper on black mamba (the 2nd/hard move) from the start, but my lower hand came screaming off: NO!! next day for sure.
i did manage to do fern roof completely clean 2nd go of the day. it felt great! (picture shows me before the bump move with my left hand, before the dyno to the pointy looking jug over the lip off the heel). [you can find a video on vimeo of some guy doing it close to the same way i do (it's at about the 3 minute mark in the video... with good footage of other hueco problems, too)]
super psyched!
good luck to you, dear reader, wherever you are, with whatever you're doing!
Tuesday, February 10, 2009
WINDY IS AS WINDY DOES
[song: frontier psychiatry by the avalanches]
the wind gust are crazy today in el paso. up to 40 or 50 mph, and pretty much non-stop. we were on tour in the back country and it was pretty cold with the wind, even though the sun started showing its face this afternoon. yes, and it snowed this morning. nothing stuck but it was half of white-out conditions. pretty cool. did the highball 4 fight or flight in it; the last move being the crux (basically a dyno off a left-facing, good crimp rail to a flat sloper... not to mention a heady top-out) at about 20 feet off the deck, so that was for sure the tick of the day.
i finally feel like i'm coming out of my slump. 2 days ago did a few 6 repeats and a bunch of stuff under that grade. the day was mostly a hangout day though. we had a great day. climbed with some really strong guys. i mean, it's strong when you flash a 10 or two in a day right?!
anyway, yesterday was the kicker for me. wasn't really sure how it was gonna go; felt pretty sore and tight in the morning, but just warmed up slow on a bunch of easy highballs. then broke off from some folks from boone, nc (bill & andy & heath) and tried fern roof (9/10). it actually went really well: 1st go for the day i made the big triple bump move easily (i don't do it the kneebar way [which is like an 8 or 9 now] mostly becos it's more fun the way it used to be done and it suits me better -even though it's supposed to be "harder"), but was a little pumped and fell.. 2nd go i did the same and then caught the big dyno move out over the lip to the jug... that's where i kicked the pad with both feet. i finished it out no problem; i just have to go back and do it without the dab. i feel really good about it though.
after that saw andy almost do power of silence (10), and bill got chablanke (11) down to one move. then we went over and worked on loaded with power (10) with them and mike wohner and this guy alex and a few others. i did all the easy moves, but couldn't trust the heel hook to make a move out across my body to a slopey pinch. i was pleased though. i could get to that move consistently, so i'll work the last half later.
after all that, mike and i wanted to finish up on the front side with some stuff that he hadn't seen. so i showed him a dyno i did the other day, the smooth move (8), and another awesome dyno, slick watts (5). i can now say i've done an 8 in my approach shoes (even the crocs); granted, you have huge feet with 2 good underclings up a blank, slick-rocked face to a flat ledge about 7 feet away. i would have to say it's easier than the cinderella dyno. regardless, it was super fun. the 5 has an okay left foot, bad slopey crimps on a more overhung bulgy arete with a high, core-intesive right foot where you create momentum to go around a bulge with your left hand to a jug about 4 feet up. you feel like kareem abdul-jabar sky-hooking while deciding at the last minute to just slam dunk it! it's super fun as well.
oh, and i saw three chubby havalinas running across a field about 20 yards away this morning. that was cool. moving a lot faster than they first appear to be able to.
the wind gust are crazy today in el paso. up to 40 or 50 mph, and pretty much non-stop. we were on tour in the back country and it was pretty cold with the wind, even though the sun started showing its face this afternoon. yes, and it snowed this morning. nothing stuck but it was half of white-out conditions. pretty cool. did the highball 4 fight or flight in it; the last move being the crux (basically a dyno off a left-facing, good crimp rail to a flat sloper... not to mention a heady top-out) at about 20 feet off the deck, so that was for sure the tick of the day.
i finally feel like i'm coming out of my slump. 2 days ago did a few 6 repeats and a bunch of stuff under that grade. the day was mostly a hangout day though. we had a great day. climbed with some really strong guys. i mean, it's strong when you flash a 10 or two in a day right?!
anyway, yesterday was the kicker for me. wasn't really sure how it was gonna go; felt pretty sore and tight in the morning, but just warmed up slow on a bunch of easy highballs. then broke off from some folks from boone, nc (bill & andy & heath) and tried fern roof (9/10). it actually went really well: 1st go for the day i made the big triple bump move easily (i don't do it the kneebar way [which is like an 8 or 9 now] mostly becos it's more fun the way it used to be done and it suits me better -even though it's supposed to be "harder"), but was a little pumped and fell.. 2nd go i did the same and then caught the big dyno move out over the lip to the jug... that's where i kicked the pad with both feet. i finished it out no problem; i just have to go back and do it without the dab. i feel really good about it though.
after that saw andy almost do power of silence (10), and bill got chablanke (11) down to one move. then we went over and worked on loaded with power (10) with them and mike wohner and this guy alex and a few others. i did all the easy moves, but couldn't trust the heel hook to make a move out across my body to a slopey pinch. i was pleased though. i could get to that move consistently, so i'll work the last half later.
after all that, mike and i wanted to finish up on the front side with some stuff that he hadn't seen. so i showed him a dyno i did the other day, the smooth move (8), and another awesome dyno, slick watts (5). i can now say i've done an 8 in my approach shoes (even the crocs); granted, you have huge feet with 2 good underclings up a blank, slick-rocked face to a flat ledge about 7 feet away. i would have to say it's easier than the cinderella dyno. regardless, it was super fun. the 5 has an okay left foot, bad slopey crimps on a more overhung bulgy arete with a high, core-intesive right foot where you create momentum to go around a bulge with your left hand to a jug about 4 feet up. you feel like kareem abdul-jabar sky-hooking while deciding at the last minute to just slam dunk it! it's super fun as well.
oh, and i saw three chubby havalinas running across a field about 20 yards away this morning. that was cool. moving a lot faster than they first appear to be able to.
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